SPF turn signal flasher and emergency brake pads
 

Does anyone know the part number to the turn signal flasher? The plastic housing crumbled in my hands:LOL: I also need to know the part number for the driveshaft ebrake pads. Oltoff is supposed to be getting some but I don't like waiting:LOL: Thanks for the help. I checked SCOF and they didn't have the part numbers.

Thanks for any help
MM

I got my ebrake pads from Hillbank and their part # is SUP-00-002-00124.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/supe...ml#post1248326

The turn signal flasher should be the standard 3 prong 12v that you can get at almost any parts store like these:

NAPA NF HD13
NAPA NF EL13
Tridon EL13

Good Luck!

Thanks!!!! I owe you one. Don't hesitate to shoot me a PM with any questions I have a ton of information as far as part numbers (gaskets etc) for your engine.

No one has the "crescent" type driveshaft brake pads ins stock. They are backordered from the factory.

However you CAN have them relined at a decent clutch/brake supplier. Remove your existing pads and have the backing plates reused.

Be sure to sand them square/flat before reinstalling (regardless of relined or new pads, do this) but I don't need to tell Madmaxx this because he knows it all ........................

Thanks I would have never thought about relining. I found a couple places in Houston and will call them tomorrow!!!! I imagine it will cost $$ but i am tired of using a block of wood:LOL:

I wish I knew it all but until i do I have to continue to be a Monday morning quarterback**)

Too funny I get back yesterday put the car up on the lilt and see this big red wire hanging down. The terminal on the back of the alternator broke. Plenty of slack in the wire. Just cheap connector. Funny thing it happened on my boat last summer but the boat is 25 years old:3DSMILE: I have learned the best connectors are found at marine stores.

Update:

Had my shoes relined at Herbert Heitman in Houston (713-675-9001) at a drive out cost of $45. They are a very large shop servicing petrochem plants so my little tiny ebrake shoes met their minimuim charge. I had to be a real man putting those on the counter LOL!!!

Tips for installation YOU MUST HAVE SPF SERVICE BULLETIN to install and adjust. No-way you can figure out on your own. I checked mine new shoes for flatness on glass and they were flat but excellent suggestion. One tip is you do not tighten the brake shoes all the way with the allen head screw. There is a spring which maintains tightness and you use loctite on the screw. This allows complete contact with rotor while the screw ensures no slippage between pad and disc holder.

Thank the lord I have a 4 post lift where I can stand under the car. Results met expectations. They will hold the car on my sloped driveway which is what I needed. The ebrake handle is almost verticle before they engage as specified in the TSB.

Only issue left is the smith oil temp gauge and it is about complete....

Glad we could help.

Often the backing plates have some "warp" due to over tightening or overheating ("Why, no. I didn't drive with my E brake on, why do you ask?")

Often the solutions are simple and right in front of us, but due to our technical society we tend to overcomplicate the answer.

If anyone needs the tech service bulletin on the E brake email and I will forward.

Interesting comment on the backing plate it appeared they "machined them" so they must have recognized some unevenness. The way the disc holder is made is it is peaked in the middle where the screw attaches to the brake shoe. It allows the pad to rock side to side to account for any misalignment to the disc. If you look close at the TSB you can actually see the screw head is slightly protrudes the caliper. When I removed the shoe pads were tight and the springs fully crushed. Now they rock back and forth easy.

I am sure I could tighten the clearance up more and get even better holding power but I don't want to risk the pads rubbing.

Thanks for all the help!!!!!

i redid them as the first time i was in a hurry. It is critical you read the instructions 10 times. It is key that when you do your adjustment you have the front pad touching the rotor. Mine wasn't even though my mounting holes were elongated. The elongation was not enough. i had to go another 1/8' inch. Once I did that I realized the pads are actuated from one side, in other words they don't clamp together evenly. To pacify this I adjusted the bracket again via the mounting bolts. This compensated for the pads being "wedged" shape when closed and for the most part made them even.

I double checked my two nylon nuts on gear shift and gearshift looseness. The only way in my opinion is to remove the seat.

Long story short 4 hours later I have it nailed with decent clearance .030" between rotor and pads. It pretty amazing zero holding power to the last click on the ebrake handle and it LOCKS UP!!!!!

In the end the pads are wear items. The caliper has the ability to float and the pads screws are spring loaded so the pads will touch off on the rotor at times.

In the end no mechanic is going to go through the process i did. If they did they would have to charge $400 in labor. Bottom line is if the factory didn't get it right the only hope is you. I have a 4 post lift I cannot imagine the nightmare of getting up and down a 100 times.