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-   -   Superformance Clutch replacement (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/superformance/137566-superformance-clutch-replacement.html)

GTBill 11-20-2016 08:34 AM
Superformance Clutch replacement
 
So, It may soon be time to replace my clutch on SPF #2479 (Build date 2005).
My question is :
Can the transmission be removed with the engine in place?
Any and all related experiences would be appreciated .

jhv48 11-20-2016 09:30 AM
Do a search. Trans comes out through the tunnel. Engine stays in place.

Detroit Bill 11-20-2016 12:33 PM
Meaning you remove the tunnel and pull it out the top.

jwoodard 11-20-2016 03:50 PM
Both jvh48 and Detroit Bill gave you good info. Remove the tunnel and pull the trans up through the tunnel opening. Remember to support the rear of the engine. Much simpler and quicker than pulling engine and trans.

ha_pe_1968 11-21-2016 04:51 AM
Hi Bill!
Removal of the tunnel will be one possibility, removing the engine an other.
I decided to let the tunnel and the engine at its place. Have a Roush 427R too and a TKO600. It was very tight - but after doing it i know it is possible to remove the transmission without removing the tunnel. Move it back and up at the back as much as you can and you can slide the transmission out. Nothing against removal the tunnel...but i prefered to not mess with the sticky sealing around :-)
If you have the clucth out replace the pilot bearing too.
Regards
Peter

Shootnride 11-21-2016 06:14 AM
The first time I pulled the engine and trans together and decided I didn't want to wrestle with all of that if I had to do it again sometime in the future (which I did), so I cut out the transmission mount and fabricated a removable mount. The trans is very easy to remove and replace by itself now.

Ted

GTBill 11-21-2016 06:31 AM
Great Info Guys !
I have a great Chassis Builder in my area, so I will look into the removable cross member as well.
Thanks to all.

Mark IV 11-21-2016 12:29 PM
Please be aware that the factory's official position is that a "removable" cross member removes all warranty and liability from the chassis so modified.
There is a dealer service bulletin telling us not to do it.

Guys, there is no need to cut the crossmember out. The trans comes out easily with the tunnel removed. Yes, there is messy sealer on the tunnel but put down some self-stick carpet runner and run a putty knife around the sealer.

Yes, you can sneak the trans out the rear but it is tight. If you have a good engine hoist you can pull the entire unit out in way less time than cutting and welding.

Shootnride 11-21-2016 08:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark IV (Post 1409382)
Please be aware that the factory's official position is that a "removable" cross member removes all warranty and liability from the chassis so modified.
There is a dealer service bulletin telling us not to do it.

Guys, there is no need to cut the crossmember out. The trans comes out easily with the tunnel removed. Yes, there is messy sealer on the tunnel but put down some self-stick carpet runner and run a putty knife around the sealer.

Yes, you can sneak the trans out the rear but it is tight. If you have a good engine hoist you can pull the entire unit out in way less time than cutting and welding.
Well, first off, my car is WAY out of warranty, so I don't care about that. My crossmember is constructed so that it ties the frame rails together very securely and I'm confident that it's as rigid as the factory made it. Secondly, I'd rather build three new crossmembers than remove that tunnel, carpet, seats, seat belts, sticky goop, etc. And, once the removable crossmember has been constructed, the time required to remove the transmission by itself vs. pulling the engine and trans together isn't even remotely close to the same effort.

Ted

Mark IV 11-22-2016 04:16 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shootnride (Post 1409432)
Well, first off, my car is WAY out of warranty, so I don't care about that. My crossmember is constructed so that it ties the frame rails together very securely and I'm confident that it's as rigid as the factory made it.
Maybe....maybe not.

We have asked the factory for a "removable crossmember" and have been told "No". They contend that the frame design of the MK III does not allow for any possibility of such an item and that the torsional rigidity will be compromised. And as further proof of their CAD design they DO put a removable member in the MK II (289) as the frame design in that model allows such a bolt in piece. The 289s have a round tube ladder type frame that differs from the AC supplied unit by both tube wall thickness and a triangular reinforcement inserted into the tube.

Do what you want but the people who designed the frame for the MK III say "don't do it"

Shootnride 11-22-2016 07:09 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark IV (Post 1409446)
Maybe....maybe not.

We have asked the factory for a "removable crossmember" and have been told "No". They contend that the frame design of the MK III does not allow for any possibility of such an item and that the torsional rigidity will be compromised. And as further proof of their CAD design they DO put a removable member in the MK II (289) as the frame design in that model allows such a bolt in piece. The 289s have a round tube ladder type frame that differs from the AC supplied unit by both tube wall thickness and a triangular reinforcement inserted into the tube.

Do what you want but the people who designed the frame for the MK III say "don't do it"
Your point is well taken.
I can certainly understand why the factory wouldn't want owners doing their own crossmember fabrication, as they have no control over the quality of the work. I understand that it is much easier for them to attain the desired torsional rigidity by welding in the crossmember. I do believe that if "they" really wanted a removable crossmember they would come up with a good design. Not trying to pick a fight, just my opinion.

Ted

lovehamr 11-22-2016 07:22 AM
Considering BDRs already have a removable cross brace and they seem to do fine racing I'd have to question the validity of the factory fear mongering.

patrickt 11-22-2016 08:42 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovehamr (Post 1409460)
Considering BDRs already have a removable cross brace and they seem to do fine racing I'd have to question the validity of the factory fear mongering.
If you're not going to tilt the radiator back, and you're not going to bring the pedals up from the bottom, and you're not going to point the wipers in the right direction, then you're sure as heck not going to fab a removable cross member.:cool:

Mark IV 11-22-2016 09:18 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovehamr (Post 1409460)
Considering BDRs already have a removable cross brace and they seem to do fine racing I'd have to question the validity of the factory fear mongering.
Because it is a different frame design. There are Superformance MK IIIs racing also (see Olthoff) but they have not cut out the crossmember. agian our MK II 289s have a removable member but they WERE DESIGNED THAT WAY.

On an E type Jag you must pull the engine to do a clutch. Flat rate is ten hours plus. A local dealer here used to do in three hours. How? They cut the frame member out and then tack welded it. They got away with it for a long time until one customer had his tranny fall out going over a set of railroad tracks. Just because you CAN do something doesn't mean you SHOULD!

Blas 11-22-2016 09:34 PM
Perhaps we could try to keep this thread on topic and save the stupid-azz comments.
The guy is looking for information. Mark gave you the factory guidelines. Period.
It is your car to do as you please....
Pulling the center console out is not that big a deal. Good time to clean under the seats, collect all that change hiding under there, missing garage door openers, house keys, etc. an opportunity to adjust the seat angle easily, install floor matt keepers, add heat insulation. Install a drain plug under seats...
we have successfully pulled a trans on a 351 engine once from below, but needed to move engine forward and lift it slightly. Pipes need to be loose... so much work and effort we pulled the console to reinstall the trans.
Feel free to contact me if you need guidance on the removal procedure.
Blas

ha_pe_1968 11-23-2016 12:22 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blas (Post 1409504)
Perhaps we could try to keep this thread on topic and save the stupid-azz comments.
The guy is looking for information. Mark gave you the factory guidelines. Period.
It is your car to do as you please....
Pulling the center console out is not that big a deal. Good time to clean under the seats, collect all that change hiding under there, missing garage door openers, house keys, etc. an opportunity to adjust the seat angle easily, install floor matt keepers, add heat insulation. Install a drain plug under seats...
we have successfully pulled a trans on a 351 engine once from below, but needed to move engine forward and lift it slightly. Pipes need to be loose... so much work and effort we pulled the console to reinstall the trans.
Feel free to contact me if you need guidance on the removal procedure.
Blas
Hi Blas!
Think it depends on the chassis no. I was able to pull the tranny without moving the engine, without loosing the pipes - it was really a tight fit but it works :-)

I would not do a removable crossmember - Mark gave all the informations. If you design and calculate a frame you have to deal with torsion, with bending...this means if you have a weak connection point for the crossmember....much fun - if it is to solid the frame can not bend under load at this area - worst case will be it will break in the near of the connection points - but however.

Peter

Detroit Bill 11-23-2016 04:34 AM
Why does it need a clutch
 
Why does it need a clutch? Have you checked the slave cylinder adjustment?

DWRAT 03-05-2017 05:57 PM
FYI,
SPF 667 just had it's clutch done at a local repair shop and they pulled the trans out from the bottom just like any other car.
Not sure why everyone says it can't be done that way because it can be.


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