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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2017, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1795 View Post
Rick,

Thanks! Looking forward to hearing that information. That means that I have to start clearing room in the workshop
As I relayed to you the car in the body shop being smoothed and prepped for paint which will be late next week/early following week.

On to final assembly and then into the container........
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2017, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark IV View Post
As I relayed to you the car in the body shop being smoothed and prepped for paint which will be late next week/early following week.

On to final assembly and then into the container........
Jim - what colour?
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2017, 02:31 PM
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Glen,

Going with Monza red as I do not want to go with the traditional blue and want the car to stand out when I go by other cars on the track
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2017, 02:43 AM
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Monza red is good....but Viking Blue is better (more stealthy, no?)
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2017, 01:20 PM
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Default What a beautiful car!

Well, the paint job is finally complete and I must say that it looks great! I cannot wait to have the car back home. Hopefully it will not be much longer before she arrives. You will not miss that car on the track. Hell, it looks fast just sitting there

Hope to have more pictures soon in the coming weeks. Spring is approaching and I have an itch that needs to be itched!

Looks like mine is SPFR0011. I am assuming that means Superformance Riverside Racer.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2017, 01:57 PM
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You putting rondels and number on now or once you have it at home Jim?
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2017, 02:04 PM
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Ross,

Saving some money and putting on the roundels and numbers when it gets home. Already have them here. It will be #10, my first son's birthday. May even look at adding a transverse stripe in white as well.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2017, 03:06 PM
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Nice,
passing the paint milestone definitely gets the enthusiasm peaked
Congrats
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2017, 04:23 PM
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Congrats on the paint job. The red looks amazing.
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Old 02-16-2017, 04:29 PM
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Congrats - looks great! Really looking forward to seeing this car when it's done!
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2017, 04:30 PM
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Yes, it finally makes me feel like I have a car coming. Until now, it has just been a bunch of parts sitting around the house and garage. They did a real nice paint job. Thanks for all the support.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2017, 04:59 AM
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Default Differential venting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morris View Post
OK Jim

Here we go..... I'm only going to suggest things we did when we were racing against the A/P and B/P cars ... like you I didn't have all of the money, so I had to figure out how to do modifications on my own .... As luck would have it, we learned a lot and had much more confidence in the car when we got on the track. It is a great feeling when you win and have built or modified the vehicle you are driving.

Since you showed the Rear End.... here's some photo's of what you may want to consider ....










One of the problems we encountered was filling up our catch can on the rear end .... and we found out that the oil was going out the breather or vent hose into the catch can .... and then would not return to the diff.... then we would damage the differential.....

These are the mods we did to fix that issue...

These are the things we did to KMP259 as well and it has proven very successful.
Morris,

My welding skills scare me and I did not want to take a chance on ruining the rear cover for the differential. In addition, on the jag differential that I have, the design is different and there is a block inside of the vent hole that prevents direct access of fluid to the hole.

But I am concerned that there still could be a loss of fluid while racing, so this is my solution. Let me know what you think.

I made an aluminum cover (the rear cover for the differential is aluminum).

Drilled and tapped it for screws and a 90 degree elbow fitted with a hose barb.


I have a used piece of stainless steel braided fuel line that I plan on running from the differential into the bottom of a catch can located in the trunk, so that if any fluid were to escape into the catch can it could flow back into the differential. I will have air vents in the top of the catch can to allow for air pressure to escape.


Any thoughts? Using the braided fuel line to decrease the likelihood that the line could get cut while the car is engaged in hard cornering.

Car should be completed at the factory next week and shipped out. April and May are going to be very busy months.

Jim
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2017, 12:40 PM
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Jim

The opening you are using..... is for the return cooled oil coming from the cooler.... on that rear end cover.

That is a bad place to try to vent from.... if you look closely it is directly in line with the spinning differential where all of the splash is coming from.... If you look at the photo I just posted, it shows the inside of the cover and is just off of the Ring Gear and to low for a vent hole. Also remember as you go around turns and are pulling X-amount of G's... the oil is trying to get our the sides as well.

So you need to plug that hole. Then go to the top hole on the cover and do the work we did on the inside of our diff to prevent the oil from pushing out of the rear end.... the oil will sling into the vent hole and then keep pushing oil up to the catch can.... and eventually deplete all of the oil in the Rear End by continued forcing of the oil into the vent hole.

That is why we have a cover over the hole with a fence below it so that the oil coming off of the Differential doesn't get to the vent hole. the large plate keeps the oil from the Ring Gear from getting to the vent hole.

Also only use AN fitting with Stainless braided lines.... you can't get a worm clamp to remain tight on a hose barb made for a rubber hose. especially situations where there is a lot of oil.

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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2017, 12:51 PM
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PS

If you look at the large fence that goes within 1/8" of the differential .... it's not very far from the vent hole .... also the Jag cover in my photo show's a small fence around the vent hole ...but that is not enough shielding of the vent hole to go on a race track.

And you can say that oil can drain back in the the rear end from the catch can.... but it should never get there in the first place.... if it does ... you will run the diff dry or low on oil and severely damage the bearings and seals.

The oil needs to stay in the rear end and lubricate the componets even when you are thrashing around a race track.

I'm just saying....
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2017, 01:28 PM
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Morris,

Ok, thought that it looked like a large hole for a vent. There is a small hole that has a plastic plug in it directly over the differential oil fill hole towards the top of the cover, I imagine that is where the vent is supposed to be. Not sure why it is plugged. I do not see any other openings on the differential cover.

I can easily make another cover to block that return hole for the differential cooler, or decide to plumb in a differential cooler. Not sure that I will need one as I do not plan on running any endurance races right now.

the weather has turned cold again, so I will wait until it gets warmer before taking the rear cover off and seeing what is there. Will take your advice concerning how the hose that runs to the catch can is connected.

Thanks for the advice, greatly appreciated.

Jim
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Last edited by 1795; 02-25-2017 at 02:08 PM.. Reason: re-wording
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Old 02-27-2017, 12:31 PM
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Default Differential cover pictures

Morris,

Attached are some photos of the back cover, it is a little different on the inside than yours. Ross was planning on welding the rear cover similar to what you have done. Given the inside of this back cover, what do you think?


There is a vent tube that comes down at a right angle and has oil deflectors to the side and below it. Not sure if this vent will require further modifications? Your thoughts?


What would you add?

New gears and LSD.


Thanks.

Jim
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Last edited by 1795; 02-27-2017 at 12:38 PM.. Reason: forgot something
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2017, 12:33 PM
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Default More cobra pictures

Things are moving along. New photos from the factory



As I write these photos are probably obsolete and a lot more has been accomplished. Starting to really get the itch. Went to an indoor go-kart track this weekend and started honing my skills.

Jim
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Old 02-27-2017, 01:21 PM
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That cover is the same as the Jag cover I've been showing you.... that small tube that is the vent in the photo is upside down...... meaning the cover is upside down ....

The bad thing about that vent tube is there is no way to attach a braided line to the cover.... and it's probably rubber or plastic and will deteriorate in due time, no that won't work for a race track.... especially when you oil gets up to 300*plus degrees.... you need to do a 1/4" NPT the hole and attach a plug in that hole and then drill a hole in the top of the rear end where you have less chance of getting oil in the vent line.

In this photo you can see how we drilled a hole in the top of the housing and put in a 90*degree nipple then put a fuel filter in line with the line going to the catch can. we also have the mods to the inside of the rear cover.... doesn't matter if it's steel or aluminum... that vent hole has to have the cover and fences to prevent oil from getting into the line.

If you are going to do it.... do it Right and then you don't have to be concerned about it later ..... like at a track ...

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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2017, 01:24 PM
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While you are drilling and tapping holes in the case.... you might as well drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the case so you can drain the oil out of the diff at some later date....or plumb it for a cooler and pump.

That's a 3/8" NPT hole and tap.

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Old 02-27-2017, 01:59 PM
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Morris,

Ok, that helps. I understand what your have done a little better now. I was not aware that your cover had a similar vent tube coming down. Ross was suggesting that we may want to plug the oil return hole and move it forward, like you have done. We will plug both holes on the back cover. I like your idea of coming out of the top of the differential, as I was wonder how that vent would effectively release pressure being that the end of the tube was so far down from the top.

There already is a drain plug on the bottom of the differential and Ross and I have talked about using that to go to the cooler if we decided to go that route. We would install a tee fitting and have one go to the cooler and the other plugged for draining fluid.



Thanks for your suggestions, it has helped a lot. Just wanted to check back before we started to make adjustments and make sure that we were on the same page and why.

Jim
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Last edited by 1795; 02-27-2017 at 02:45 PM.. Reason: forgot something
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