Rear End Lube
Just have a question for the SPF owners here concerning changing the gear lube in the rear end. My car has the Ford 8.8 rear end, and of course, no drain plug, so the lube has to either be sucked out of the housing or the cover has to be removed. I would prefer to remove the cover because it not only will drain more completely, but it gives me a chance to inspect things. The question is, can the cast cover be removed by just removing the frame mounting bracket ? It looks like there may not be enough clearance between the cover and the frame for the cover to clear the ring gear. Has anyone here done it ?
Ted |
Why not just drill and tap the bottom of your differential. Install a drain plug and your finished.
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That is what I did. Super easy.
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Drilling and tapping the housing is probably the best long term solution - unless this is a one time event. Regardless, you shouldn't need to remove the rear cover to drain the housing - just unbolt it and pull it out far enough to drain the fluid. If you're planning on replacing the gasket, however, that will be a bit more challenging without removing the cover completely.
On a related note - gasket or RTV sealant? |
RTV on a Ford 8.8"
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I'm going with #2. Every time. |
So, wouldn't you want to remove the differential and rear cover prior to drilling and tapping for a drain plug? Seems to me that if you just drill it in place and tap it that you are taking the risk of potentially hitting the gears with the drill bit, and more than likely are risking leaving metal shavings in the differential from drilling and tapping. Am I missing something here?
It seems like the long term solution would be to remove, drill and tap, thereby making subsequent fluid changes easier. |
Replace the weak factory cover with this, includes drain.
Ford Performance M-4033-G3: 8.8" Axle Girdle Cover Kit 1999-04 Mustang Cobra | JEGS |
Thanks for all of the replies. My intention was to drill and tap the housing after removing the cover. I'm not really a fan of drilling into gear cases blind. I'm assuming from the responses that no one seems to know the answer to the question about whether or not the cover can be removed without turning this into a major project, ie; dropping the whole rear end out of the car. If that's what it takes, I will do it eventually, but just don't have the time right now.
Thanks again Ted |
I had no problems drilling and tapping. PM me for more info if you want.
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From my note collection, cover it is not removable without removing the differential from the car. I seem to remember a conversation on SCOF
regarding this long ago, hence the birth of the drilling and tapping in place procedure. |
Also, if you join SCOF there is a fantastic tech library for stuff just like this specifically for SPF's.
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Mountain gear lube and two Ford slip bottles.
Wear gloves as it stinks. |
Blas, I kind of thought that might be the situation. Thanks for the reply.
jacobsed, I've done the drilling/tapping thing many times on various types of machinery. I just prefer not to do it blind if I can avoid it. I did look at some Youtube videos on the Ford 8.8 differential just to get an idea of the internal clearances where I would be drilling. Looks like there's plenty of room. Just have to make sure all of the chips get cleaned out. Jeff, Ya, that Ford friction modifier is some nasty smelling stuff. Thanks again for the replies gentlemen. Ted |
I read somewhere that if you remove one of the lower studs it becomes a drain.
Replace it with a bolt with sealant on the threads.... Hummmmmm... interesting? I thought they used bolts not studs back there? If there is no wires to it I get lost easily..... Blas |
When I first saw the title to this thread, I thought I had wandered into the wrong forum!
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Ted |
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