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RT sway bar kit installed
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Beautifully made, very nicely packaged, and with great instructions...now to figure out the six possible settings!
A quick spin revealed a much more compliant feel if that makes any sense. All the ends are heim joints vs just compressed rubber bushings. Steve h 1764 |
I don't like the ground clearance issue.
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Clearance
I think that may be a bit of an optical illusion from the photo; look at the rear in the distance, they are in reality about where the factory bars were...
Cheers Steve H 1764 |
Back looking forward
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Kind of the same illusion, look in the distance at the front...
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Where did you get the sway bar kit and what model is it?
Jim |
Jim,
That is Randy Thomas's "R/T" brand for MK IIIs, will not go on the MK II. We can mod your bars to rod ends if you want to go that way. |
Mark IV, can you tell me if the front hub bearings on a 3100 series SPF are running in oil? Thanks.
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I ask this because I have a small but persistent oil leak coming from both hubs behind the 5 pin adapters. I could not imagine an oil bath bearing in this day and age so it must be the grease melting down. Time to pull them and see whats going on. My guess is that the grease that they used may not be so great. 700 miles on the car, might as well rebuild these too!
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Thanks. May be something that I want to consider for a winter project. Made some adjustments today to get ready for Watkins Glen July 7-8. Jim |
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As long as you are aware of this, you'll be fine. |
If I were going over objects big enough to catch the bar...
The oil cooler and its housing would likely be dragging upside down under the car...that's the thing I worry about...especially parking.
Cheers Steve H 1764 |
I'd say you'll be fine, as it sounds like you are aware of other low clearances. :)
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I don't think the RT bar projects any lower then the standard sway bar does below the car. The sway bar's position (relative to the ground) is set by the two poly mount rotating clips connecting it to the chassis and that is pretty much sets it for you. (The laws of physics says that two objects - bar & chassis -cannot occupy the same space at the same time)
Ideal setup I am told is sway bar and its arms parallel to cars A-arms and the linkages perpendicular to A-arms and sway bar. Never seen one meeting both parameters because you can tune the bar by adjusting the linkages connection point on the sway bars arms closer or farther from the bend to change the leverage. You should eliminate the preload on the sway bar by making the final adjustments to the drop links with someone approximately the same mass as the owner sitting in the drivers seat. Don't think fuel load enters into the equation because the fuel tank is pretty much centered in the chassis and the fuel sloshes around some. Blas |
Did you do the suspension as well or just the bars?
Also, I assume you have the R/T rear suspension mounts. I just put them on a 2,000 mile car with the upgraded 10MM bolts and found that both sides had sagged 5MM on the stock mounts. Pretty scary stuff! |
Everything but the spindles...
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Steve H 1764 |
WOW.... looks like Tiny Tim will be getting that operation he needs for sure now.... "God bless us, every one!"
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I have his coil overs adjustable shocks, ball joints and rear mount. I'm installing his adjustable sway bars as we speak.
Question, on the rear sway bars, and the spherical joints, mine have and inward angle to them. Did that happen on your as well??? |
never mind I got the solution as to what I did wrong
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