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Turn signal issues
The turn signal stalk will "latch" down for a right turn, but will not latch when pushed up for a left hand turn. After turning right, it will cancel as it should, but for a left turn, I have to hold the stalk up while turning and then just release it to cancel the blinker.
Pulled the wheel and can see the "ears", and the lug looks to be in good shape. Any idea what's causing this? Is there a fix short of replacing the turn signal assembly? |
Here are the details: https://www.craigscobras.com/tips/blinker/
If you so need a new signal switch assembly, we supply a good quality unit at a reasonable price. Some repro units are over $400.00, some absolutely junk switches can be had for $50.00. Ours is $134.40. rick@autoventureusa.net |
I’ve seen that post, but the cancelling part isn’t the problem. If I can push the lever down(right turn) and it stays down until I complete the turn, but when I lift the lever(left turn) and it drops back to center as soon as I take my hand away, is that a n adjustment issue, or is the switch mechanism bad?
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The reason you are having this problem is the SPF switch does not score high on the quality scale. Buy a good quality, new switch from Rick and be done with this issue.
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Well, I'm sure Rick sells nice stuff, but the "low quality" SPF switch has worked quite well for 13 years now, and for all I know, may still be working well, just suffering from a minor maladjustment.
Throwing a new part at every issue that arises is certainly one way to approach things, but I sort of prefer to see if I can work out whether or not a new part is truly needed before I start to R&R. If anyone out there can provide a little more thoughtful insight regarding whether the symptoms I described indicate an adjustment issue or an actual failure of a 13 year old "low quality"part, I'd appreciate the input. |
Please feel free to purchase a switch, if needed, wherever you please.
The reality is the unit used by Hi Tech (the factory) is known to wear and have the latching mechanism fail as well as cancelling issues. That you got 13 years out of it is to your benefit. Obviously, a 13-year-old car with 500 miles will have less degradation than a 13 YO car with 25,000 miles. I suspect when you remove and inspect the switch (and to properly inspect it you must pull the wheel off at the minimum) you will find the pivot points worn with the flat pieces loose on the pivot shafts. I had the same issue on my 289 MK II which is what lead me to look at several different manufacturers of the switch. |
Thanks Rick, that’s a helpful reply. If failure to latch is a thing, and not just an adjustment issue, then yes, I guess I need a new one. Two questions: the cancelling lug has a threaded setscrew hole, but I have no setscrew. Should there be one, or is it held in position by the force of the spring? I don’t see a way to get an allen wrench on if I tried. Second, does the unit you sell look like the factory unit?
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Quote:
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Update:
I received some good info from Rick and decided to order one of his units as suggested by eschaider, but as luck would have it, they'd just sold their last one and might not have more for a month or so. Being a bit stubborn and probably a touch OCD, I didn't want to go that long with this thing bothering me. So...I pulled the unit apart and lubed up all the moving parts and with a great deal of effort, managed to get it all back together again (sort of a square peg, round hole type of thing) and it works great. Holds in position for turns in either direction, and cancels smartly upon completion of the turn. Might work for another 13 years, or might crap out tomorrow. The fix was relatively simple though, so for those having similar issues, I'd recommend spending an hour and a few drops of oil before tossing it in the trash. |
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