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Half Shafts
Has anyone looked at replacing the 8.8 rearend half shafts with some that have U-Joints in place of the CV Joints?
The boot retainer for my inboard CV on the drivers side is so close to the frame it hits and then comes off. Anyone else have this problem? |
The CV joints by design are a better deal. Less vibration. If you are having trouble with the Ford units, get stepp' n and figure a way to incorporate some from a powered Porsche 930.
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Half shafts
If the band clamp is hitting the frame, you need to have the rear end aligned. You can relocate the wheel with the a-arm adjustments and still have the wheels correctly aligned. Or the differential has moved in its mounts. Check for cracks in the center section mounting.....or do the alignment. There are a few companies that make better, stronger half shafts, but they all use CV joints.
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There should be a later rear Diff Bracket that lifts the housing and helps with your problem. It has been changed on the later cars but I think your car number has the old and lower bracket.
You may want to check with your Superformance dealer, they should be able to help. I have two freinds that had the same problem and I beleive it cured the problem. |
Thanks for the input gentlemen.
I will look it over during the winter. |
Call Mark Williams
Silverback Call Mark Williams. He builds custom shafts good for 1,000HP and Torque. He will also build stub shafts for the center section. Rick L.
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Rick's suggestion is probably the strongest CV upgrades available. Here is the product page => http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1768 These are not inexpensive but they are the 1000 HP solution for Vipers. Mark Williams will build them to fit other IRS cars also. I was speaking to them about an SPF version at the Autolite Nationals this year. Quite an impressive solution! Ed |
Leaking half shafts
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Bartruff1,
Inside the rubber boots is grease. Grease is made of soap and oil, Soap is used to hold the oil in place. If you are seeing a drip of oil, which given enough time will make a 3" diameter discoloration on cast aluminium you may have no issues. If your boots are not split, forget about it. Beleive it or not 80% of the grease in cv joint never sees service, how would it nothing pumps it in there. The grease is spun around any by centrifugal force the oil gets seperated from the soap and by capilarry action finds it way out. As far as the rear end leaking there should be a drop or two every now and then, it keeps the lip seal lubricated. If you aint getting drops on your driveway every single time you drive it you do not have a problem. If you do take it somewhere make sure they dont try to take you for a ride. By the way buy GLD hold through september and sell, statistics shows it goes up 5-7% in September every year since 1993. |
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I just got back from a 3k mile road trip with many high speed runs - 120+ mph - across Montana and Wyoming. I bring this up because I have found three quarter coin sized puddles of fluid that looks like it may have come from the pinion seal(?). Thinking maybe the pressure build in the ring and pinion housing at high speed may have caused this leaking that showed up on my garage floor when I got home. A short trip across the Island and back showed no continued leaking from the rear end area. Should I not worry about this?? |
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That almost sounds like it may have been overfilled, pull the plug with the car level and it should be at the bottom of the hole. Trust me when you are driving it is a shower of oil in there. I have not seen but imagine there is a breather on top to vent any pressure. make sure it is not plugged. If you check the level and it is fine dont worry, if you check and it is low add some and watch for drops. I would hate to get into the rearend.
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You old farts have to remember when all cars leaked, dont believe me look at the freeways the center is darker than where the tires ride, why? because cars drip oil. Why are roads so slippery when it first rains, because all the oil goes to the top of the water. We are used to our GM's, Fords, Lexus, hyndai's going 100K miles and never leaking a drop, well these are not GM's and Fords. A drop or even a couple drops here and there will hurt nothing, sheet I used to park a car on the street the transmision leaked so bad, who cares dump some fluid in it. Now if it is dripping on another car that is a problem. If your lilft is like mine pick up some drip pans at Autozone, big tin ones, they fit perfectly between my runways.
Also remeber when oil gets hot it really thins out so any little gap sufficient for surfact tension and it will bleed. Its August and we are going to see some leaks. Its so miserably hot in Houston 100F at 70% humidity I did even start it this weekend. By the way the MGD 64 aint worth a crap either. I had to dring 24 of them to get the same buzz as 12 miller lights. Hell you would drown before you could get drunk on the crap in this heat. |
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Thinking of doing the same. Skip. |
Easy mod. Just re-drill the rear diff. bracket 1/2" higher. Moves the carrier up just enough to give you additional half-shaft clearance and won't upset the pinion angle. I've had this mod on my car for ~6 years and it eliminated the problem (and when I do drive my car, I drive it hard).
-Dean http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/IMG_7231.JPG |
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Bartruff,
Instead of using the white lithuim grease make a batch of lemonade and put some vodka in it, seams to work well with my girl friends and not as messy!!! |
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