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considering a Heat Exchanger
My small block 347", 10.7 comp, 10+ quart Aviad oil pan has the oil cooler blocked off ALL YEAR.
The only time I have removed the (very elegant if I do say so) piece of cardboard and tape blocking the oil cooler was in a summer track event at ButtonWillow, a SCCA track to the west of Bakersfield...temp was in the 90's+. Unless I am stuck in traffic, LA of course, I rarely see more than 160...almost feel guilty getting on the throttle wondering if enough oil if flowing. I have been thinking about a oil thermostat. OK, would a HEAT EXCHANGER do a better job of getting the oil temp UP quickly in warm up and keeping there when the car is at freeway speed but under hardly any load? A friend of mine and I installed a heat exchange on his BackDraft 351/427 which had heating problems at the track to begin with, even after adding a oil cooler. I think it is accurate to say the heat exchanger moderated temp swings, and as his water temp had always been running OK and it seemed the water cooling system had cooling capacity to spare no problem at the higher temps. Of course a heat exchanger is harder to connect, water and oil lines..I know first hand. But this may really be a better solution, short of removing the oil cooler...(that would be too easy). Pete |
Fred
it's pretty solid. The brackets are tightened around rubber collars. No paint issues or movement in 3 years! Richard |
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What a great idea to cover the cooler with the number plate!
I agree, you shouldn't need an oil cooler for street use, a heat exchanger would be the better idea - unless you live in Germany where street use means 5000+ rpm on the highway frequently. Where do you measure your oil temp? The sensor should be in the sump. Dom |
What brand is the thermostat
Lineslinger,
What brand is the thermostat sandwich plate you are using? Do you have another photo showing the plumbing after all the oil lines into, out of the engine, remote filter mount and oil cooler were set up? Dominik, The oil temp sensor on my car is on the front of the Aviad oil pan. My friends Backdraft setup has the oil temp sensor on the oil line coming out of the filter and then into the heat exchanger. thanks Quote:
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I stuck a black sheetshirt in the oil cooler hole of my car. You don't even notice it and it is lightweight.
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in the sump
Good, the sensor should be in the sump. You want to "estimate" the oil temp when it leaves the bearings.
There is a most valuable chart on Randall's site: http://www.performanceunlimited.com/ http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...tempguide.html Note: Engine oil temp is typically 75F hotter at the bearings than in the sump! Bearings burn out at 375F (300F in the sump) Dom |
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Take a look at this link posted by RedBarchetta last year, its a good overview. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/arch...p?t-77477.html |
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Rubber Sheet will also give the insects a softer landing. ... . .. hahahah.
glad to see it helped. |
What is a good operating temp range for an FE, or a Windsor?
E |
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-Dean #747 |
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Your bearings wipe out at 375F, which results in 300F in the sump.
195F in the sump will get you the longest lifetime of your engine. From: performanceunlimited.com Dom |
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For me personally, any oil temp approaching 240-250F while cruising or "moderate fun" ( :3DSMILE: ) is when the concern buttons get pushed. Have never seen it there (knock on wood). |
I run a Canton. Same problem as others have stated. When it is in the 40 to50s range still takes a while to warm up. I am considering a plexi cover for those cool mornings. In city traffic Canton opens at 100C and stays within a few degrees all the time.
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The filter stand is not a good place to put the sensor. It has been proven that the quick bend at the filter stand artificially increases the oil temp seen at the gage. At least on the standard Superformance stand. One of my projects once I get the car is to re-locate the sensor to the oil sump in the pan. Eric |
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