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Beware-SPF rear end mount problem
Just wanted to throw out there that I had a failure in the passenger side rear end mount on SPF #390. I am unaware if they upgraded the bracket on the newer cars. The metal they used on the mount is thinner then it should be or they should have added gussets to the mount (which I did). Mine sheared loose and actually had bent and tore the mount. This caused the rearend to slip down and the axle to hit on the frame, making a rotational clanging noise come through the roll bar. Just a heads up to do a visual inspection on your SPF's to see if everything looks good. I understand that this is not an isolated issue and it also has occurred on small block cars. Mine is all fixed and as much stronger then it needs to be with the new gussets. :)
Jake |
Jake,
Please be more specific, as this is new news to me and I've had my car (#747) for five years and don't recall anything specific to a rear-end mount issue. SCOF would have also covered this extensively if it were an ongoing issue (you are a member of SCOF, right?). The upper shock tower brackets can be a weak link and upgrades are available through Performance Unlimited. I highly recommend them. -Dean #747 |
That is a problem on the older cars. I welded in a new mount from 1/4" thick angle iron on #306 for a friend when he tore it out. The newer ones have a better mount on them and I think it was updated around #600
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Here's an old thread on the shock brackets issue. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...ht=shock+mount |
Dean, I have had issues posting pics to CC. The third member is held in place by a rear bracket and a right and left bracket that secures the member to the frame. The brackets on my car had no gussets and were made from very thin steel. With the amount of twisting force that the third member takes under full throttle it was way under built. The simple fix is to pull the driveline and the side and rear mounts hardware. This allows the third member to drop down enough to weld in gussets (2 per side) and reassemble. There is no need to pull the entire third member out or remove the axles. It sounds like they fixed the problem in your case. As for SCOF, I could not keep up with the amount of e-mails and never got into that scene. Another friend with a SPF said that he has read on SCOF that others have had this problem in the past.
Jake |
Jake I'm sure you did the same thing as I mentioned repairing above. The front mounts for the diff were only 1/8" thick and had no gussets. The big block cars seem to tear these off the frame. The one I repaired had a hole in the 2X3 frame rail where it ripped out. We covered the rail with 3/16" plate and welded a 1/4" bracket in for the mount. Has been fine ever since and he is putting over 700HP to it on a regular basis.
You might also want to check/replace the rear upper mounting bolt on the diff. It takes a lot of twisting stress when the front mount comes loose. |
Rear end mount
What car number did they change the mount?
I have replaced the shock mounts, but the mounts for the rearend looked OK |
Rear-end mount
What car number did they change the mount?
I have replaced the shock mounts, but the mounts for the rear-end looked OK |
Quote:
Glad you were able to resolve this one. Check out the shock tower brackets. Four bolts (instead of two) and more steel in the right places is the ticket with these. A failure of that shock tower will send you off the road. At a minimum check your bolts to ensure they are riding on the elongated shoulder and not the threads. Aircraft Spruce sells the correct (longer shouldered) hardware. -Dean |
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Jake - Agree with Dean. I was getting the SCOF emails in a daily digest, but now I just go directly to the SCOF Yahoo group portal and read/respond to emails that way. |
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