I have a Backyard Buddy 4-post lift and I love it. I got it about a year ago along with other members of CC through a group buy. I don't bolt it down since I move it from bay to bay when painting. If you will be moving it only in your garage, I would recommend not buying their movable caster kit ($295-450 depending on make). I use four car dollies that I had bought for $109 to move it. I use the lift for many other things such as a work bench. I also use it to take the body off the chassis. You can see some shots of the lift in action on my site.
Take care,
Bruce

AFEW YEARS BACK I BOUGHT AN EAGLE FOUR POST. BEST THING I EVER PUT IN MY GARAGE. WHEN IT CAME, I WAS SOMEWHAT UNSURE ON ITS ASSEMBLY AND CALLED EAGLE. THE REP SAID HE WAS ON A CALL, BUT WOULD CALL ME BACK...YEA, RIGHT. 5 MIN. LATER HE DID CALL, SPENT AN HOUR AND WALKED ME THROUGH THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY. THAT REALLY GOT MY ATTENTION. THE REASON I CHOSE EAGLE WAS THERE RAMPS WERE WIDER THAN THE OTHERS I LOOKED AT. MY GARAGE CEILING IS ONLY 8' BUT WAS ABLE TO GET MY ERA ON TOP, AND MY GT 500 UNDER. IM NOW LOOKING AT HAVING NOTCHING MY TRUSSES TO GAIN ANOTHER 2' TO PARK THE 500 & 350. YOU CAN NEVER HAVE ENOUGH GARAGE SPACE, WHEN I BUILT MY HOME I THOUGHT 1600 SQ. FT. WOULD BE MORE THAN ENOUGH, BOY WAS I DUMB!

lift
 

Thanks guys!
Looks like it will fit
gn

Great timing..
 

This thread couldn't have started at a better time, as I am reconfig'ing my garage.
I've read these posts, as well as the archived ones... the choices are dizzying, so I'll pose a simple question for current lift-owners:

Given the choices, which is the preferred type: drive-on or chassis-lift?

My application would be for use during the build and, after, for general maintenance. The ability to stack one-over-one is a bonus, but not the primary reason for getting one.

Took a quick eyeball at my ceiling height this a.m. ...looks like uncut 8-foot plasterboard walls with about 9" concrete skirt and 6-9" headers up top...so I guess it's a 9 1/2' ceiling. I'll tape-measure it on the weekend.

Thanks;)

If you ever want to use it for service, get a two post.

When you drive a car onto a four post lift, you STILL have to jack it up by hand to get the wheels off the ramps. The only advantage to the four post is for added parking space, and I can still do that under my two post if need be.

If you want a clear floor lift, you need a 12' 6" ceiling.
The floor plate lifts will fit with 9' 6", but you can't get a big car or truck high enough to avoid lumps on the head. :CRY:

Later,

bill wells,
If I may, which brand of 4 post are you using, and why that particular one?
dana

COMPUTERWORKS : as stated in earlier posts, i have both the 2 post and the 4 post. the 4 post is preferred if any space or floor thickness limitations.

Four Poster Advantages over 2 poster:

* 4 poster does not need to be bolted to the floor (2 poster is bolted)
* 4 poster can moved with a car on it with optional portable/ removable wheels
* 4 poster requires only standard 4" thick concrete floor depth (2 poster requires 6 to 8" floor depth )
* 4 poster column heights are shorter, maybe 6-7' depending on brand VS 2 poster requiring sometimes 12 foot o rmore ceiling ht for columns or like mine at least 10-1/2'. ( some brands are less)
* 4 poster is typically 110v powered (220 optional), 2 poster i tyipically requires 220v (220v , 30 amp for mine)
* 4 poster is easier to use, just drive on and park it. 2 poster requires some finesse / tinkering with the two swing arms under car pick up points and then slight adjustment again to get the fore/aft 'safety's " to lock into place.
* 4 poster easier for pick up of cars with low ground clearance and side pipes where the 2 post swing arms might be more restricted. longer drive on ramps also avail with most for even less ground clearance.
* "jacking trays" can be ordered on a 4 poster allowing you to jack the car up with bottle jacks and then using jack stands for those times you want to remove the wheels/tires etc...hey, how often do you do that ? and is that the primary use of the hoist. my 2 poster makes that job easier, but again, i dont do it often and could use a hydraulic jack on the floor !
* car is more stable on a 4 poster resting on all 4 tires than it is on a 2 poster where there is some 'rocking' when doing some strong arm work underneath the car.
*MORE room underneath for another car on a 4 poster. remember, you get a full 72" lift , ceiling permitting on a 4 poster with more clearance underneath. Why? the two poster lifts the same ht but remember the wheels /tires are hanging free, so they are BELOW the space of a 4 poster thus restricting the height of the car coming in underneath due to 'hanging tires' and their narrow track !!!! roof of car underneath could go boom on tires !


2 post advantages over a 4 post

* the ability to remove tires / wheels easier than on a 4 post.
* wheels/tires hang 'free' with relaxed suspension so access to inner fender wells etc and ability to move front tires from side to side to work on steering etc is easier.

JUst my experience since 1994 with the 2 poster and 1998 with the 4 poster.


DANA: my 4 poster brand is STINGER. they advertise in Hemmings , as well as other brands. why this brand ? A friend sells them, the quality was excellent (paint/welds/seams/mechancials) . ALso, he had some young lads that could unload the truck at the house ( shipped Yellow Frieght and weighs 1500 pounds and comes strapped together disassembled) who could also put it together. there are other brands more $ and some less $, but this was convenient for me.

Bill

Steve,

Thanks for the info and your email. Your suggestion:

"you can do the bolting (to the floor) after its all in place.
I had to move mine around a bit for the best fit.
A little trick to move it. Cut up a few small pieces of pvc pipe
3/4 to 1in is fine. Then use a jack to lift the post then slip the pipe
to
the front of the plate in the direction you need to go. do this on all 4
corners.
you can roll the whole thing with a pinky. well almost. lol."

-is excellent! I'm going to pick it up and assemble it on June 8th and will let you know how it went.

Bill W.
...thanks much for taking the time for such a comprehensive comparison...

...it's a cut-and-paste keeper!

I really like the Rotary 2 post chassis lift. The swing out arms have enough adjustement to lift virtually anything, the "pads" on the lift arms are adjustible by screwing them up and down so you can get any height adjustement at each corner. It was my preferred lift at the last garage I worked at, more adjustiblity. And, I can get the chassis up high enough to stand confortably underneith it while working on it, the BIG plus. You do have to bolt it to the floor with 1" diam redhead bolts, but you should anyway. I can't imagine what kind of hell would be unleashed during a minor earthquake if it were on castors. I never store cars underneith a lifted vehicle, earthquake fear. I wouldn't bother owning a drive on lift, it only takes one minute to set the chassis lift arms in the right place prior to lift off, and you can't take the wheels off on a drive on lift, so there goes half the usefullness. How do you drive a car with 17" rear tires onto a drive on lift with 12" wide ramps? I don't own a lift, just spend all day monday through friday standing underneith one. My cars usually get the jackstand treatment at home, while I lay on apiece of cardboard.

mr fixit. not all ROTARY LIFT hoists have screw pads on the swing arms. some of their models have fixed rubber pads but have the option of several thickness rubber pads that 'snap' into place or 'pop up' at the end (90 degree snap up position) . also, some low slung cars have a frame or lift 'pick up points' that are lower than the swing arm height at full 'rest' position which necessitates driving the car onto some wood , or similar material, so that the car is raised enough that the swing arms will swing underneath (my 57 bird is too low in the front and requires the front tires of the car to be driven onto 1x6 piece of wood . similar experience with a viper). Other cars with side exit exhausts will find the rear swing arms to have a similar rear clearance problem requiring the rear to be driven onto a piece of wood to get clearance for the swing arm to move underneath, and some cars will also find that the swing arm 'squashes' the exhaust at that point ( as it does my 65 mustang with limited frame rail pick up points in the rear and side exit exhausts). my 4 post Stinger hoist encounters no such problems with low slung cars etc. Both my 2 post Rotary Lift hoist and 4 post Stinger lift can raise to the same 6' height so working underneath each is the same. Remember, many lifts have different options for swing arm pads, adjustments etc and are not all necessarily the same. Bill.

I have a four post from lifts unlimited. Very happy. 10Ft ceiling can stand under the cobra.

update,

Got the lift assembled, bolted to the floor, and wired. (In my next life I'm coming back as an electrician instead of a stock broker) My garage has a 13 foot ceiling so there is tons of room above the car with the lift all the way up. Getting the garage door to open against the ceiling instead of the standard 8 1/2 foot height was a total B*TCH. It took a few hours to set up the lift, and 3 days to get the garage door set up.

Question for those of you with an Eagle 4 post lift (FP-12) or similar. Do you have any vibration when raising a car on the lift? Mine seems to make a cavitation/vibration sound about half way up. Nothing seems to be rubbing and the lift seems to be plumb and level. I was thinking it's just the safety "wedges" rubbing against the safety rods.

My second question is do you guys feel comfortable storing your car on the lift in the raised position? Being that it's just hanging on the chains (yes I know there are safety mechs on the device) I'm a bit reluctant to leave it up.

frank...re my 4 post Stinger lift, NO noises, quiet as a church mouse. re storing cars underneath. that is what it is for man, go4it !! I have stored two cars underneath 2 cars overhead on my 2 lifts ... since 1994 with the 2 post and 1998 with the 4 post. i havent lost a car yet or had any narrow misses...as long as they are on the safety stops. I would NOT trust it on hydraulic only when not on the safety stops. also, if for some reason you want the lift in the UP position without any weight on it, i would not do it unless it is on the safety stop. dont trust it to hydraulic alone regardless of what someone tells ya !!! enjoy your lift and never having to bend over again to wax the lower part of the car, work on the exhaust, check tire pressures or put black coatings on the wheels , or clean out your grille or anything that used to be below your waist level. just raise the car to a comfortable work position. dont forget to get scooter chairs/ stools for working underneath the car with a cup holder of course !! life is good, now it is better. bill wells.

My Eagle 4 post lift had a little of the vibration you are talking about at first, but I bought some chain lube from motorcycle shop and coated everything well. It seems like use helps also. Now it is smooth and quiet! I really like my lift. Sure makes everything easier. If I could only keep from bumping my head occasionally (I guess that is not the lift's fault, but an operator defect). Enjoy! Later, David.

David,

I tried the chain lube as you suggested and I still have the vibration. It isn't a scary sound, but it doesn't sound normal. If I lower the lift slowly it makes the same sound, but if I let it go down full throttle it is quiet as can be. Any suggestions? I was thinking of removing all the rollers and greasing them up.

Thanks,

Frank

That may help. Have you called Eagle? They may have suggestions.

Hey guys I'm baaaack! Been a bit busy.

I fixed the vibration in the lift, after replacing all the saftey rods and actuator plates it turns out it was simply low on fluid. Duhhhhhhh!

In my hiatus I figured out how to work a digital camera and took some photos of my garage. Hopefully I can figure out how to post them. Here goes:

one more pic

I installed a Back Yard buddy about a month ago. I got the 220 volt motor and I just love it. In order to get maximum height I took out my ceiling and ran three 2x12 laminated beams under my ridge beam to hold up the roof and to keep the side walls from blowing out. I still have some finish work to do. Also as you can see I am waiting for my garage door tracks to come in. The new tracks "follow the roofline" bringing the garage door within inches of the ceiling when the door is in the open position. It is a 1-1/2 car garage. City hall would not allow me build my garage out and I liked the area so I decided to go this route for now. I can always take the lift me.