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engine dies after idling for 5 minutes, then starter won't turn over
Just as the subject line says. I have a SPF early model with a 427FESO. Started fine yesterday afternoon, went to pick up my son, cruised around and stopped at a buddies to pick something up. Left the auxilary fan on as I ran inside. Showed my friend the car, and while we were looking at it, the idle dropped and the car shut off. NO POWER AT ALL. when I turned the ignition key, I got no ignition light, nothing. Just a clicking starter. However, the auxilary fan ran. Strange. After trying to jump it off my portable charger (which made the lights come on, but wouldn't turn it over), we tried to jump it off my buddy's car. After a few minutes it worked.
So I'm at a loss... something is obviously leaching the power, but I have no idea how to find out where. Maybe a bad alternator? Should also mention that I have been running the brights as the regular headlights have been VERY dim. I just replaced the battery in August. Any suggestions are appreciated! |
I'd check all the main connections and grounds first and foremost. Then take the battery down to the local parts store for a test. You might take the alt as well. If you've got a multimeter you could also check the current on the battery while the car is running. I can't remember off the top of my head what it should read under load but if it is below the number, you have a bad alt.
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SPF????
You have bad grounds---common in fiberglass cars/boats, especially cars with rear mounted batteries Clean the frame where the ground attaches and also run a number 6 wire up to a starter bolt as an extra ground. Blas , a WCCC member who posts here has wiring diagrams for the SPF cars that are serial number specific--get one With bad or poor grounds it is possible to get back feeds in the electrical system that will give results a syou speak of Also I have found on SPF that they call the grounds earth and some components (lights) are cross wired (tail lights/parking lights) Jerry |
ballpark numbers using multimeter on the battery
motor off 12.4 to 13 volts motor running 12.8 to 14 volts. should not read low 12 volts even under a load. hopes this helps Bill |
Don't rule out the ignition switch. Had to replace mine for the same reason.
Just my 2 cents Mark |
More fuel for ya. I recently had a hot start condition in my SPF (#747 - early '00 build) and I did EVERYTHING that was already posted here, mostly checking/cleaning ALL connections and having the battery checked out. The battery (a Bosch unit) was marginal and wouldn't get the job done once the engine was fully warmed up. I also discovered a broken main alt. wire that was hidden by the shrink wrap. So it was arching and working to a degree, but not a solid connection and probably led to the poor battery performance over time. I wouldn't have discovered the bad connection if not for a very thorough inspection.
Well I fixed the alt connection but I was still experiencing the condition and the battery had to be the culprit. I just installed an Optima 34R (reverse post) red top with 800 CCA and the hot start problems have completely gone away. Hot start conditions can be tough to pinpoint...sometimes you end up throwing parts at the car until a solution rises to the surface. Good luck! -Dean |
Batteries 101-there is no rhyme or reason for them to drop dead.Doesn't matter if they are 2 years old,2 months old or 2 hours old.Check it out.If it IS bad,don't stop there-continue the search.There is more going on here than a battery issue.
Ignition switches & bad grounds while they will effect starting,will NOT cause the car to die while idling. All this points to the alternator.Which MIGHT have taken the battery to the point of no return. |
I had the positive cable to the battery come loose/off even though the bolt on the terminal was really tight. Never had that happen on any car before LOL
Maybe it is something simple like that? |
long shot - but I had a short in the panel under the steering wheel... one of the grounds came undone and was bobbling around shorting out from time to time.
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Quote:
I had the same thing happen to my positive terminal, very strange! (the car died on the hwy). In fact I had my carb linkage and gas pedal bolt vibrate off too. I am going over the entire car with loc tight before I put it away for winter. |
Wow!!!
This site is a wealth of information...thanks! I will start the troubleshooting tonight...
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LOL CB!
I better check my gas pedal!!! I had a diff mounting bolt back out ALL the way. E brake backed out too and fried the weenie little pads. I check all bolts very regularly. I am not going for "dirt nap" because something falls off!!! LOL |
check the wires going to the coil, mine shutoff while idling to it was where they were spliced, respliced them an that fixed it. check your coil to when they get hot you will lose the spark.
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