Dipstick solution?
 

hey guys...I am looking for the best way to seal the external tube of the dipstick assembly to the block in a 302. The tube looks like someone tried to use white caulking to do it at first, and it has come loose. I need all the dip stick gurus out there to chime in..:D

BTW, on an old chevy I had, we bought a dipstick only without an external tube that went straight into the block and had a rubber o ring that sealed the handle in the hole where the ext tube would usually go right at the block. anyone seen something like that for a ford?

Sealing Oil Tube
 

In your description , I must assume the dip stick tube is the correct one for the block, i.e...... is the tube the correct diameter to acheive a tight interference fit ? Have you tried to purchase a new tube to compare ? If you are using the correct diameter tube for the block with a good interference fit., This application sees a lot of vibration and oil so you need the right product, OEMs use these types of adhesives. LOCTITE makes a product that can bond/seal the tube (steel) into the hole but only if its a tight interference fit. Take a look at the 600 series products at this link.
http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...D0000000389%7C

Google their products to learn more. But if the tube is too small, no amount of sealant or glue will fix it for long.

Oil dipstick
 

I just bought a new chrome dipstick and tube ($14)for my 289/302 in my 91CR 427. It was to replace one that had broken off where it went into the block (at the extreme right front corner of the block below the alternator). I was lucky enough to use an easy out to get the broken piece out of the hole. The new one fit fairly snug in it but I used a dab of clear adhesive silicone on it when I put it in. The attached bolt hole clamp fits on one of the the alternator mounting bolts near the top of the tube and keeps the tube secure.

Jim

I probably went too far but I threaded the block for pipe thread . I installed a brass fitting (male pipe to compession coupling). Then the top tube was made from a quick release pin so I'd have enough wall thichness to incorporate an O-ring groove for the bell on an OEM dipstick. I had the dipstick brazed at the bell to make sure there was no movement or leakage. Then I had everything chromed and polished. Everything was adjusted prior to finishing to the correct length so it would match the original. Dipstick fits tight and the system doesn't leak at the block ,coupling or at the top of the tube where the dipstick with bell fitts. I to was never confident in the OEM push in setup. They allways seemed to to leak a little or a lot. I went on a search at some local car collections and noticed that there were more than one version od the dipsick some are higher some are more forward . As I remember some were bent some came out the oilpan and so on. So when shopping around you need to find a setup that fits your need and work out the kinks. I wanted to get high enough to make it convient and away from the header. It isn't fun grabbimg a hot dipstick. Also you want the tube to be high enough that you can see the tube as atarget for reinserting the actual dipstick. I filed small V notches into the side of the dipstick at the indicater points,ground the end inti a point with a rounded end so the dipstick would go in more easily. When dipstick was finished I lightly sand plasted the surface of the dipstick where the levels were indicated so the glare from the oil level could better be seen. Some times when youre reinserting the dipstick and the lighting isn't all that great You may have to form your hand around the tub and use your hand as a guide to get it in the hole. Putting your hand next to a hot header or down low isn't that great .

I found an OEM original dipstick tube for my FE and it worked great. Previously I'd tried the chrome re-pop and I had no luck with it.

It depends on where the dipstick is.

If it's in the side of the block, just clean it out good, use some silicone sealant, and bolt the top tab to the header bolt.

OTOH, if it's in the alum fron t cover, it could be more difficult. The hole in the alum tends wear in odd shapes over time. Getting it to sdeal with simple silicone could be difficult. There I would try JB Weld.

If the front cover is off the engine, drill and tap NPT threads, then use a Lokar screw in type. That will fit easily, and be leak proof for years.