Questions about First Kit Car in Texas
 

I just joined but have been on other forums for a few years now but going to post this here since it appears to have a more active Texas section.

I have been wanting to get a FFR Coupe kit for a few years now but had some concerns and questions.

First question I have is how did everyone pay for their kit? I was thinking of just simply saving up the $15,000 for the kit and pay out right but a part of me isnt too crazy about sending that much money at once. I thought about using a credit card and then pay it off but still not sure.

Second question pertains to titling the kits. I am in houston and was wondering what the exact titling process would be to avoid emission testing? Sema for the state of texas lists that kit cars are to be titled as the year of manufacture but also require to pass emission testing for said year. This is one of a few reasons that has me on the wall and not sure if I should take the plunge and buy a kit when I finally get the space and money together to cover the expenses.

Third question is about Stewart Shipping service. How exactly good are they and what is a good estimate to figure on on the shipping cost to Texas?

I dont know if I would have a shop out towards austin built by time I am ready to buy a kit or not but the shipping is a concern of mine since if I am out towards austin by then they would have to delevier to my door which would be atleast 400 feet away from the street and I dont know if they would do something like that or if it would be up to me to get it to the shop.


I think that is all of my question if I forgot any or think of something else I will add it in later. Thanks in advance.

Questions about First Kit Car in Texas
 

Rusty,

Log on the the Houston yahoo group.

There you will receive info and experiences we have been through titling our cobras.

am

I made my kids mow yards for a couple years and my wife worked three jobs to pay for mine.

If you buy a new purpose built kit from a replica maker it should come with a Manufacturer's Statement of Origin (MSO) denoting the year the replica is intended to "replicate." The Great State of Texas will dutifully recognize that year (e.g. 1965 Daytona Coupe) for titling and emissions purposes. This has been discussed ad nauseum here if you search in the Texas forum.

You might want to get out from behind the keyboard and go meet some owners and discuss these issues. Much easier than burning years sitting at home dreaming. You might also find some friends there to help you get the frame and 20 wooden crates from the highway up the hill to your barn.

Ok, thanks I put in to join the group and will read over there.

Just want to do all my research before I make the investment jump for one of these. I also dont want to screw up and lose my job cause the State has alot of ways a person can lose their State Inspector license. Better safe than sorry.

Aside from that after getting the kit though I will be seeking opinions of others on which route to go in some areas. Part of me wants to go with a race car inspired style on it but built how I personally would if I was building it today. But with FFR introducing the new glass rear hatch I just havent heard if the coupe will be getting the glass hatch with holes predrilled in the glass to attach it to the frame and give that race car look I could use rivnuts that I have used on my restoration project that looks like oem factory rivets but their actually a bolt. If they glass hatch has a glued on hinge then I might be going another route since I hate those glued brackets, everyone ive had failed. Like wise I dont think a smooth glass rear hatch would go with the race car look I was going for. Then the other part of me also wants to go with a more modern feel as well such as A/C and heat, with maybe carpeted floors since I know all too well first hand painted aluminum will have paint wear issues under your feet. But if I carpet the console then I am unsure how I would blend it into the dash to console panel especially since I planned on a heavily vintage race car feel with chrome toggle switches with a dimable license plate light above the switches to illuminate them at night and some form of text in the aluminum to ID the switches.

Theres also the color issue where I love the lighter Viking Blue with the Wimbeldon White stripes. But I did multiple color palets of the Coupe and I am really liking the 1956 Ford colors of Meadowmist Green with Wimbeldon White racing stripes, Meat balls, and billboard out back with a 1956 Ford color Pine Ridge Green Poly team stripe. Its a mint green color body with a dark hunter green colored team stripe that has a metal flake appearance to it with the silver color added to it. I really like that layout but I also like others. So I got alot of conflicting feels on it that will see me posting alot either here, on the FFCars boards, or even on the Yahoo group when I obtain my kit and start the build.

Ouch, I just planned on putting money to the side till I had enough to buy the kit and ship it. Nice thing about my situation is I dont pay rent because I keep the vehicles running for the home owners business so I should be able to take the $450 a week I make and put enough to the side that it shouldnt take long to save up $15,000 to the side for a kit. Big issue right now is lack of space. Theres 6 vehicles here now with one of those vehicles being mine.

Oh I plan to. I am trying to get in touch with some local coupe owners to see them in person to see how big they are. I know a 6ft tall person can easily fit in them. My only issue is with work I only have Sunday off and I am typically busy with something else so I have to make time.

I also will admit I didnt search, I didnt even think about it. I went back 2 or 3 pages and didnt see many on Texas titling but I did see people talking about it and it sounded very easy.

Rusty, you should listen to el M. -- his looks may fool you, but he's surprisingly bright.;) I'm not going to get involved in this thread other than to tell you "Don't do it." These cars cost a lot of dough... even an FFR. They cost way more than you think they do. There are much better avenues for your money than these cars.

Oh I know they do. Basically take what you plan to pay and times it by 10 is a good idea of the over all cost. Only reason I want to do this is it would be something you dont see much of and be alot more fun than buying a new car which could cost me just as much lol.

I will take note of that though. I am open to all opinions. God knows any car project is a money pit cause your always trying to profect something better and better till you either go broke or you finally say no more I am leaving it like it is.

Silk scarf? $28. Driving gloves? $50. Pilotti driving shoes? $135. Only having to starve for 33 weeks to buy an unfinished Cobra replica still missing paint, tires, battery, driveshaft, transmission and engine? Priceless. **)

Sounds about right.

Thats how it goes you have a dream car and you pretty much spend your life savings. Its like you have a 60ftx40ft garage with a $80,000 kit car parked in it but your home is pretty much bare of furniture and you and your family is pretty much starving but you got your dream car.

God knows thats about how it would be for me. After I go the route I would love to I will end up with more money in the car than a person would think is sane. Almost $5,000 for the EFI webber setup with the computer for the engine id like to build for it. Some would say youd belong in a straight jacket for that much money for the induction system alone.

But in my defense though you only live once and I rather have fun and enjoy myself. I can always sell the car down the road if need be and recoupe some money out of it and the money I lost I will just equate it to the cost of having fun and enjoying yourself. Much better than to take a 4,000+ car and try to strip it down to build a race car when you could build one in kit form and drive it to work during the week, cruise and show it off on saturday, and race it on the track on sunday.

Rusty the best advice i can give is like you said DO YOUR RESEARCH.....
FFR is not the only company that builds the Daytona Coupes.....
keep looking and good luck on you quest to fulfill you dream....
and keep us posted.....

Rusty, For a great reference you need to contact James Yale, he owns and operates Radical Roadsters of Texas, a Backdraft dealer, but he personally has built two of the best FFR cars I have seen. A Cobra and Daytona coupe. He is a great guy and will be able to give you all the info you need.

http://radicalroadsters.com/

I have looked at others but I havent seen one that provides as much for my money as FFR does. Last kit car company I looked at they only supplied the fiberglass body pieces and the frame and you were responsible to get everything else but it cost the same as the FFR kits do where you get everything included minus the engine trans and rear end.

I will do that. Looking at the photos of the Coupe, it looks good. I have to make a note on if that coupe has the plexiglass rear hatch or a glass rear hatch. If its plexiglas it looks very good, if its glass I might have to get him to make me a rear glass hatch with a frame and rivets/bolts to hold it in place. I just found out that the glass hatch offered by FFR for the coupe now has holes in the glass for the hinges, gas struts, and the handle/latch. That doesnt sound too safe cause to get a good seal to prevent leakage without a frame on the glass all it would take is a rough road to cause the glass to flex and now you have a split/cracked/busted rear glass hatch now.

I just cant understand why they didnt design it to mount to a frame. A frame would provide way better support to the glass and reduce the risk of damage under normal useage.

Rusty, you should listen to el M. -- his looks may fool you, but he's surprisingly bright.

Jim,

I didn't know your mother was on this forum? Only a mother could love a face like that made for radio!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:

Larry

The ONLY reason Pat likes me is because I took his advice on FE timing. Oh, and I finally stopped bashing him about storing his car for the winter in a ziplock bag. Can you believe that, a ziplock bag? :eek:

Hey Rusty, from March 24-27 the Texas Cobra Club is having its annual rally in San Marcos. Go here: www.texascobrameet.com. You should come over on Friday afternoon and look at cars and talk to owners. No charge to come look and visit. ;)

Naah, you proved your mettle with that overheating thing.:cool: When you sit down with Rusty, somebody's gonna have to break the news to him that he needs to wait a while before spending his hard earned dough on a stupid hobby like this. Tell him about the Cobra rule outlined here http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...=100837&page=7 and here http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...=109150&page=6 and countless other threads. You know "I will only buy this car if I am in a position to take the purchase money and throw it off a cliff and still suffer no ill effects in taking care of the people for whom I am responsible." There, that's your mother talking to you... dad too.:cool:

Not too far from me, hell to be honest San Marcos is roughly 90 miles from where the ground is at. So it wouldnt be hard to make it. Problem is though working at a State Inspection shop I gotta see if he is ok with me taking one of those days off. If so then I will come down then.

lol truth be told what hobby isnt stupid. Coin collecting can be stupid to some, Gun collecting can be stupid to some, Antique collecting could be stupid to some.

Way I see it, I have a interest in cars and to me I rather spend the money on a FFR Coupe and build it than fork over $60,000 for a DMC 12 from DeLorean of Texas like I was looking at before I came across FFR.

$60k in a FFR Coupe would get me more than the DMC12 in my book. Just have to wait and save money up though. Not going to dip into savings and blow all my money. Gonna take alil money out of each paycheck and put it to the side for the kit.



My only problem is trying to keep from going off the deep end on my ideas. I could skip the whole A/C idea by running fresh air vents. I could probably scrap the idea of the Accusump oil reserve system and maybe even the oil cooler idea I had. With all the time I invested in freetime doing layout plans for my ideas I would like to have all but alot of that stuff will add extra money. Like I ask myself do I really need a IRS over a solid 8.8" axle. Would I see a difference in ride and handling on the street and the track over a solid axle even though all my cars have been solid axles. Upside is I can do an alignment on the rear axle but with a solid axle I cant. That extra adjustability is a plus but just dont know about the cost. I can cut corners to save some money by going with the Thunderbird CV axles from a local parts house for $25 an axle vs the $60 an axle for performance ones from Summit. Downside to the oem replacement ones is Ive heard at high speeds on tracks the boots have melted and failed which if I planned to do track racing some like I would like to then I should justify the extra expense of the performance axles. But I could also save money by going with the OEM ones and swaping the boots out and come out cheaper.

In the end I fully agree though. I am not one to waste money. I dont do credit cards cause you always end up paying more than paying cash. I also make sure I have the money on hand before I go to buy something. The biggest thing though is I dont buy something unless I need it. I have not bought something I wanted since I bought my 1939 M91/30 rifle back in 2010. So I feel my next "buy what I want" buy will be a kit.