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Clutch or ??
And the fun begins again.............Out of the blue, my car will not shift into any gear with the car running. I can turn the car off and I'm able to shift into reverse. With the clutch engaged, I'll restart the the car and it want to go backwards with the dang clutch petal pressed to the stop. When the car warms up, the forward gears work but it grinds while trying to shift to reverse. No leaks, trans fluid level good. Does these cars use the same hydraulic reservoir
as the brakes? Any suggestions? BDR Roush 427R Tremec 600 5 speed Not sure what type of clutch I have Car has less than 4K on it. |
It does sound like either your clutch master or slave is bypassing.
I just changed mine out last month to a remote resv Wilwood master and Mazda B2200 (what BDR uses) slave. Roughly $100 for both. Let me know if you want the PN of all parts and hoses , fittings. |
I had similar issues with TKO 600 when the shifter fork pads failed. Stuck in 2nd gear and would not go into another gear. If clutch slave cylinder is not the issue, that is where I would look.
Phil |
I would guess as spdbrake suggests, it is probably either the clutch master or slave. Have someone look at the slave pushrod as you depress the clutch pedal. Also, check the slave for leaks. I've had to replace the slave a couple of times. Flushing and refilling annually with Wilwood racing brake fluid has helped. Heat shield from BDR on the clutch master has also helped.
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I'm going to go with slave... Once you determine that is the issue go to Autozone and get one.. Mazda B2200 truck part...
Kevin |
Crawl underneath the car and observe the travel of the clutch shift fork when you have a friend depress the clutch pedal completely. If the fork moves more than an inch, your problem probably lies with the pressure plate.
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I was having trouble with mine also. Changed it to a Hydraulic throw out bearing. Been working great ever since.
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Thank everyone for their suggestions. I decided to change both the master and clutch slave. I got a small amount of fluid on the inside of the fire wall. Is their a trick getting to the master clutch? The dang is is on the far left hand side, I can barley touch the cap .... Is removing the master brake and all shielding required or maybe removing the side exhaust to access the master?
Vance |
If you have a alum master cyl heat shield on the masters, removing it will make access easier. Just put one nut back on the brake master stud to keep it in place.
Pull the cotter pin and clevis pin at the clutch pedal. Using your left hand and a 1/2" or 12mm boxend (depending on your build) will get you on the clutch master nuts. Another person inside the car can remove the bolts while you hold. |
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