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I agree Ryan. A local machine shop fixing your damage is the cheapest way to go at this time. Build a Rip-Snorter later.
Boudy |
Looked it up
All new hypereutectic pistons, all new bearings and rings and all news gaskets $320 from summit. Why replace one cast piston?
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Your Royal Highness....
You said:
"...Flyin Freddie, Good answer, and I though you were just anouther pretty face??..." Well, yeah, I am....but that's just my 'hook' to get ya in...then I pounce! :D |
You can replace just one piston, but it will be on the same kind that has allready proven itself to be too weak for your motor. Better hope it is heavier than the other pistons as well, so you can remove material and bring it into a close balance. You will need to rehone the cylinder or the new rings won't seal right. You can cut corners, not bother measuring clearances, or "measure" with pastigauge, restretch rod bolts over and over again, but those motors generally don't go many miles, what did you get 1200?
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I got 1200miles because of a stupid error that I don't care to mention....
I am rehoning, replacing all pistons, rings and rod bearings but as far as balancing etc...the old one wasn't balanced so I probably won't do it this time....it was running great until I screwed it up! Thanks for the help, Ryan |
see thread : Official TCC Presidential Nuts. :D :D :D
hahahah |
Ryan...please reconsider the balancing...
...please, Ryan, reconsider the balancing, won't you?
Your old engine was running fine, alright, but that was with another set of pistons! New ones might not be as close as your old set, and could actually be much worse. If you're going to use all new pistons (the correct plan, by the way!) then why not spend a little more to help insure you'll get a lot more miles out of your re-build? I know you're looking to do this as economically as possible...hell, who on this website DOESN'T understand that desire?!? But, not balacing the rotating assembly could actually wind up costing you a lot more in the long run. I fully agree with your plans, so far...rehoning, new pistons and rings, new rod bearings...all sounds right. I'd replace the rod bolts, too, and I wish you'd have your rods checked, too, to make sure the big end's still okay...probably is, but how do you know? I'd also look at your mains, too, just because you can while you're in there. No sense in realizing you have a problem after you button everything back up. Man...please reconsider your decision on balancing, won't you...? |
I guess I'm the only guy around these parts that thinks sometimes it's OK to just do the MINIMUM.
With a baby on the way, funds a little short, here is my take on REALITY. Buy one piston that matches the rest of them and put the new slug in the bore! Why you gonna change rod bearings? You said the motor was recently rebuilt and detonation was the problem. Man, don't make a mountain out of a mile hill. Deglaze the bore, (a light hone) and ONE new piston. Intake and head gasket and bam, your back on the road. It will be fine! By the way, I don't like hyperuretic pistons. Use standard or go "race", not in between. Ernie |
If he had a problem with detonation, his rod bearings will be hammered. Look at the shiny spots in the middle of the uppers. A balance job will cost about $100, just a tad more than the gasket set.
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I guess it's also possible the other pistons have been damaged and just haven't cracked,,,,,,YET. But how going to balance without doing a complete tear down? And it does not appear that "balance" was an issue in this case anyway.
Leave the motor in the car. Drop the pan, pull the head, check the bearings for flat spots, shove in a new piston, cross your fingers and drive it "nice" until your get your money together. Basically a "pit stop" approach so you can finish the "race". Ernie |
He has to pull the motor out, he is goint to rehone the cyl. It actually saves time to pull the motor out if you are going to pull the pan and a head, usually. Besides, if he had enough detonation to break a piston, I would be really curious about the other pistons and their rings. Unless I am missing something, this is not ocurring during a race, no sense in doing a half-@ssed job that will just need more expensive redoing shortly down the road.
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Don't have to pull the motor to rehone. But your point is well taken, I would want to check the rings and ring lands on all pistons.
And of course if your going that far, you might as well pull the motor,,,,,,,see what happens when you try to do it "right", now it's getting all complicated. LOL Ernie Ernie |
I only had detonation on the one piston because of a sharp edge due to damage...
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Oh Nuts!!!
:D :D :D blake |
Ryan,
I'm lazy. I didn't read every reply. I did see the engine had only 1200 miles on it. You said The crack was caused by detonation Due to damage. What kind of damage? Can we see a picture? Are you sure that is the root cause? I have nitroused the hell out of stock 1973 cast 302 pistons with no failures. Just sounds kind of odd is all. Steven |
this thread is starting to get a little nutty, what don you think
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:D Oh yeah, I'm sure of it...
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New Forged slugs
Check www.dallasmustang.com for TRWs. I got a set for about what a set of Hyperwhatyamacallits would have cost. I paid about $1500 for align boring, fully balancing installing the pistons etc on my 302. It would have been about the same price to get a shortblock crate motor, but I know this one is balanced right.
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