Help! Can't bleed hydraulic throwout in Superformance
 

Disconnected line from master cylinder to throwout bearing month ago. When I reattatched and went to bleed only got a dribble of fluid out

Tried vacuum bleeder...won't suck any fluid out

With bleeder cracked open no fluid comes out when you depress clutch but I do hear a gurgulling noise

Fluid level in upper reservoir not going down

Even tried to pressure bleed with 5 psi...still no fluid going out even with bleed screw completely removed

Clutch worked fine before

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

Have you got the right lines at the TO? Master hooks to the bottom one, bleeder on top.

- Fill the reservoir and leave the cap off
- Attach a hose to the slave bleeder
- Put the hose in a catch can
- Go grab a beer
- Check the reservoir level occasionally
- After you see several ounces of fluid in the can, close the bleeder
- Top off the reservoir

I have the right line ( never took out the throwout , only disconnected braided line / hard line junction )

Left it for a hole day and not a drop. After initial fluid bled with vacuum bleeder ( about 2 oz ) , can't seem to get a drop more !

Arrrg !

Lines are all tight? It almost sounds to me that you have a constant source of air in the lines that cannot be bled out.

Check for sealed lines---that gurgling when you push the clutch in seems like a mixture of air and fluid (otherwise, it woudn't "gurgle"...).

Good luck.

I pressure bled my HTB. I've had no issues with it.

DD

You know, one other thought: on my ERA, when you bleed the system the master cylinder needs to be at an angle so trapped air can bleed back up to the reservoir. This is accomplished by having the car jacked up in the front. I don't know how the SPF master cylinder is set up, but their may be some trapped air inside the cylinder.

DD

Did you allow the system to drain?
 

trg-42 If you didn-t cap off the slave cylinder when working on the clutch, you are air bound. The other issue could be no pressure from the master cylinder. Seal went bad from air getting to them.
Start with unhooking the line to the TOB and get a quart bottle (clear) for a caught can. This line needs to be in the fluid. If the fluid looks clear and not cloudy you can reuse it. Bleed out the master first with pumping it until you get all the air out of the master. Once this is done . rehook the TOB back up. You need to be able to push in the bearing after "EACH" Pump of the pedal. You need to press and hold the pedal down, crack the line in a bottle of fluid. tighten bleeder and release pedal. If this doesn't work, crack the bleeder and press the pedal and hold it with the bleeder open. Close bleeder and release pedal . repeat until you have fluid coming out. If you release pedal without tightening bleeder you will either pull fluid back into the system or air. Fluid is OK, air no good. It this time try and push in the TOB. You will need to do this until you see on bubbles coming out of the TOB bleeder.
If you have a Phoneix bleeder kit, $300.00 they work good too but need to partially press pedal to get fluid to go through TOB and back into master cylinder. DON'T let TOB get over extended when bleeding.

Make sure that the clutch pedal is returning completely, and the clutch master cylinder piston is doing the same. (Sometimes it sticks.) If the piston doesn't return, the filler port is never exposed.

YouTube - ‪BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding‬‏

Try it this way, its easy and really works.

Thanks. Great idea

I tried this and I managed to push all the old fluid out of the MC and lines to the remote resevoir. I would think that at this point there MC is filled with new fluid

Much to my dissapointment still can't build any pressure with MC

I disconnected downstream connector before HTO and only got a dribble of new fluid. Tried vaccum bleeding at that point and was unable to suck anything

Hillbank suggested replacing master cylinder but its a ***** to get at on my Superformance

They are not as bad as they seem, I have done mine 5 times. Take off the tire and remove the inspection plate in the wheel well. It's about an 1-2 hour job. The worst part for was squeezing my lard but under the dash and disconnecting cotter pin in the clutch pedal. On a side note pull off the stearing wheel it will make it much easier.