Club Cobra - T-10

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)

- Transmission Talk (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/transmission-talk/)

- - T-10 (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/transmission-talk/126110-t-10-a.html)

I have a (non Super) T-10 behind my 289. I works well without noise. Shifts well and does everything it should. The issue is that while in 3rd gear and slowing down 25-30 it will gently "pop" out of gear into neutral. I've replaced both sliding syncro assemblies, the blocker rings (brass Syncro rings) and all bearings, shims etc. I've been told that possibly the "points" on the 3rd speed gear are bad and are preventing the sliding syncro assy from being retained when the torque is no longer beng fed through the gearbox. Im running old school gear oil. Any suggestions? I've adjusted the detent, levers etc.
Who on the West Coast is well known for T10 parts and repairs. I realize the old T10s are not as popular as a Toploader, but I'm having a hard time finding someone that specializes in them.

Rick

I was told, when rebuilding my T-10 this is a common problem....:eek:
Mike Miles knew this and knows the fix and had applied it to mine. maybe give him a call or ship it to him.

Hope this helps................
Jeff

Thanks Jeff

I did a Google search and left my number with him today, hopefully he will call back tomorrow.
There are some very elaborate videos on YouTube, but the ones I watched didn't point out anything I hadn't already addressed (???)

I've tried to call several times, no answer. Are they having weather issues in the area ?

Made contact Thank you

Rick, If you need help building your tranny if you decide to do it yourself let me know.
John

Thanks John, I'm ok just trying to sort out an ongoing issue. Thanks for the offer.

Rick, Have to agree with jwd's sentiments.
However in your case you might be able to save/cure your problem with a bit of 'Kiwi DIY'.
Grab a magnifying glass about x10 power and have a close look at the 'dogs' on 3rd gear, work out which is the coast & drive sides of those dogs ( the drive side will have the most wear/coast less ), now you will probably find that the 'pointed' end of each dog is 'rounded' off, thats not really a major issue unless its really badly beaten up, but those drive/coast flanks can be, they should have a very slight taper lengthwise so that the dog gets narrower toward the gear, this helps hold the slider in gear. Those dogs can be dressed back to this condition with a small flat disc in a die grinder like dremel.
In order for this to work out new sliders may be reqd & I would strongly recommend the torq lock sliders mentioned by jwd as well, along with checking for mainshaft twist/bend etc. Also check for end float in the mainshaft bearing/midplate as this will interfere with slider engagement in the condition you have described. Out here in NZ we have a saloon series that used the super T10/Richmond etc box's with a straight cut/dog engagement gearset and a lot of weakness's showed up, especially around the mid/plate tail housing interface where we had to make up sleeve dowels etc to limit movement, even then there was evidence that the housing was twisting under load, Tex Racing have probably taken the T10 to its ultimate form with the T101A, but thats an out n out race box, even that may have been superceded by now, I have not kept up with nascar etc in recent times.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker (Post 1285514)

Thanks John, I'm ok just trying to sort out an ongoing issue. Thanks for the offer.

No sweat, just offering up an extra set of eyes. I would look really close at the synchro hub. Parts are cheap. tearing it all apart and putting it back in rarely fixes much, unless somebody built it wrong to start with. I'd look at all the thrust sides of everything from the main shaft all the way out. Look for dis-similarities from one side of things to the other. You'll find it!