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Clutch fluid boiling?
When I take my Cobra out for a good drive (1 hr, 75 degree ambient temp), I notice that if I get off the fwy and into traffic, where water temps hits 100 C, the clutch gets a 'rub' feel close to the floor. I can also sometimes hear it, as a rub, not squeal. My pilot bushing was replaced recently. It only happens when I'm up to a 'good' temp.
The clucth fluid is indeed getting tinted, so I believe the fluid and/or hose is degrading due to heat, but what about the feel? Does my description sound like the fluid could be boiling? Clutch adjustment? |
Rod-I had that happen on the road one day and the pedal just went limp to the floor, got no gears. Pulled over, hood up and let it cool 20 minutes. All normal after and I rushed home.
Bled fluid, and installed Firesleeve over the line. Notoriously close to header on an ERA-dunno where on yours. Firesleeve is good....also use a 550 + fluid. |
Rodney: Your concerns may be justified. Replace the hose with a Teflon lined steel braid type -3 or -4 brake hose (I have -3 in OEM Shelby application). If you feel its necessary cover it with a heat sleeve. It will not degrade.
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I covered the clutch line that runs along the frame with an aluminum heat shield that I made, and also changed the fluid to DOT 3&4 synthetic. It stays light colored now, when before it would be dark brown/black in no time.
Scott |
Thanks for the replies, friends.
Chas - DOT5? I suppose this would require a complete flush, and not just empty the reservoir and add? :CRY: Rick - That's what I'm afraid of - that the tint is degrading rubber, not necessarily 'burning' the fluid. Again, :CRY: Chas, Rick and scooter - I'm definately covering the clutch line. Also, I'll empty and replenish what's in the reservoir with DOT3 and just see what happens. Hopefully those 2 quick fixes will do the trick. If not, I'm taking everybody's advice, BUT... The feel? Is the feel I described related to boiling? Adjustment, maybe? |
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AH. I didn't realize there was better stuff until I googled hi temp brake fluid.
Now my grocery list is complete. But there's still the feel?! Related? |
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Was that a Zen Master type lesson?
Not quite as helpful as the 'Clean Your Air Bleeds - GGMS'. ;) |
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I know, I know.
I was just hoping for another quick fix, and not another pilot bushing or something else. Why only when hot? BTW, yesterday I down shifted once and the tranny was still spinning/clutch dragging. Now that could be boiling/air in the line or a clutch adjustment, no? Or am I being stubborn? |
For once Sheldon is right I meant 550-ATE Blue or Gold 200. Everybody's clutch junk is different- can't say for sure what your rub symptom means. Just make those changes and test again.
Two Paxtons should make things hot fast...:MECOOL: |
You can split the heat sleeve down the length and wrap it over the hydraulic line and use lots of cable ties to secure it. Saves having to disconnect and re-bleed the line. I also put an aluminum sheet as a shield between the brake/clutch lines and headers. My symptoms of hot fluid were a mushy pedal if in stop and go traffic for any length of time.
John |
Hi!
Had the same problems at my Superformance and decided to try it from cheap to more expensive - thought it was the fluid because the problems started only when the engine was hot. 1. check the clutch adjustment and change to a high boiling brake fluid like ATF super blue or Willwood or castrol SRF, bleed very carefully..when you are not sure..bleed once again (sleeve and master cylinder) ...if problem is not solved 2. Replacing Rubber Clutch lines with teflon ones and add heat shields to the lines where they are near to the headers ....if not solved... 3. pull the tranny and check your clutch Of course in my case it was No. 3 ...a totally worn clutch...but had no slippery so i did not expected it. Greetings from overseas Peter |
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