Seeking opinions on "Luk" clutches
 

In a flurry of activity related to a shifter issue experienced with my T-5, I had the mechanic replace the clutch as long as we had the transmission out. The old one was fully functional, but the mechanic (who is a fairly highly regarded drag racer in the area) assured me that if I replaced it with a "Luk" brand clutch it would likely never again need replacement. The sales rep at the location where I ordered the kit assured me of the same general assessment.

Have any of you used this brand of clutch? So far I have probably put only about 100 miles on the vehicle and the only problem I can see is that there is not enough free play in the clutch linkage...not a big issue, I'll just get under the car and adjust the cable.

Any reviews of this product would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Dugly :cool:

Luk and Sachs are what you'll find at Advance Auto and Autozone for OEM replacement clutches.

Valeo is what most of your aftermarket suppliers use....McLeod, RAM, etc.

I have a 60s model Corvette and spend time on Corvette Forums. LUX is represented as the OEM clutch manufacturer and is typically highly recommended including by the retired GM/Corvette engineers who participate there.

Because older Corvettes have limited clutch pedal travel, a specialist on there recently set up a rig to test the distance various manufacturer pressure plates have to be compressed at the fingers, to accomplish disc release. The results were rather surprising in that the measurements were all over the place which explained why so many 63 - 67 Corvette owners have problems with getting full release of the clutch and have transmission shifting issues. As it turned out a LUX clutch didn't test out so well - taking additional compression of the pressure plate to release fully - although it wasn't as long as some others. A McLeod clutch tested particularly well.

I just mention this because if you are going to increase the free play at top of pedal - be careful that you can still get full release and proper transmission shifting.

I replaced the clutch in my ERA last winter, during an engine rebuild. The clutch I removed was an LuK, and was in very good condition with 46,000 miles on it. I had never heard of LuK, but then I met the owner of Falcon Clutch at the Fall Hershey Car Meet. He told me that LuK is a major clutch manufacturer, in Germany I think, that makes clutches for many of the big name brands, who just add their name to the product. I installed a new LuK from Falcon of the same part number, and it is working well. No issues. Falcon Clutch is on Long Island, you can Google it. They are knowledgeable, easy to work with, and reasonable prices.

Luk has a large plant in Wooster Ohio. They had just gotten started there when I made my escape in 1978. A friend, with 40+ years in the transmission business, always told me that Luk clutches were excellent quality. Don't know how they would be in something with tons of power, AND traction, but I would not hesitate in my mini-monitored roller skate. My 2¢ worth.

Luk makes many OEM clutches. Unfortunately, a few years ago, they transferred all their clutch production to Mexico. Not saying that is related to any problems, just an observation.

If it is a factory set-up with factory horsepower, it would work fine. Anything high performance needs a high performance clutch.

I've installed at least a dozen LUK clutches in cars ranging from completely stock to 500+HP big block Corvettes. Never had a single problem with any of them. They are also the OEM supplier for the clutches used in Vipers and many other factory high performance cars.

LuK--“Lamellen und Kupplungsbau”, or in English 'disc and clutch makers' is indeed a multinational with an extensive history. Assembly plants all over the world, and making clutches in Germany, USA, Hungary, Mexico and God knows where else. I have used them in many vehicles and never experienced a problem. They are one of the 3 largest OE driveline mfgs., as well as a dominant aftermarket supplier.
Anything clearly labeled LuK will be first quality, with my personal preference (prejudice??) USA or German built. Many aftermarket brands may say built by LuK..but leave out important details like exactly who supplied the specs the part was built to. LuK, like most mfgs., build multiple lines of product for customers based on price-point, with the customer deciding the specs.

You just have to remember that there's more to clutch capacity than the pressure plate.

Most of your SBF pressure plates from the major manufacturers are made from Valeo and are around 2200-2400 lbs clamping force. RAM/McLeod/Ford Racing (King Cobra) use the same pressure plate and they vary the clutch disc material to allow for more horsepower capacity.

Now, as mentioned above, Luk has a good reputation, but the holding capacity will greatly depend on the clutch disc material. A regular sprung hub disc with organic friction material on both sides will only hold so much.

Typically, there are 3 ways you can increase horsepower capacity: 1. Add more clamping force 2. Use another disc material 3. Add additional clutch discs.

Good. You should hear the stories about the scrap. Like having to set up portable lifts in a manufacturer's parking lot to replace clutch disks due to the dampening springs not being made to specs.

I've also installed many in factory cars. Not a problem, but if you deviate from factory specs, get a performance clutch.

Had a long style McLeod when car was new, did not like it. Replaced it with a Luk Pro Gold performance diaphragm clutch after the first few thousand miles.
40 K miles no problems and still smooth as silk. If I was running slicks or something ultra sticky might be a different story, I am running M/T St and very satisfied.
Oh yeah, using HTOB
JMO. Craig

Thanks to all who responded! A few comments...

The verbal history on the drivetrain is that it was taken from a 1989 Mustang GT and converted to carb. Other than being fitted with a standard Ford 9" Traction-Loc differential, the rest of the replica's drivetrain is factory stock to my understanding. When I had the clutch replaced it was not due to any malfunction, it was a pre-emptive strike to save money (the car was already on the lift and the tranny was already out) and to avoid having to deal with the clutch anytime in the near future. That 5.0 Windsor will smoke the tires across any intersection with just a push of the right foot, no need to abuse the clutch...but, then, at this time it is garaged because the BFG T/A's on the rear are 20 (!!!) years old. I am in the process of getting THAT taken care of.

How could I tell where the clutch was made? I had the mechanic save the old clutch and the packaging for the LuK...is there somewhere on the packaging that I can find the info, or would it be stamped on the clutch items (hoping that's not the case)?

My limited experience with the new clutch is that it grabs quite quickly, compared to the factory Ford clutch...which is expected given the information from the mechanic and from those who responded to my post. The factory Ford clutch did not slip, but it did allow a bit more pedal travel before it "grabbed" the flywheel...no worries, I can get use to that, for sure!

All in all, I think there should be no problems...I don't abuse the drivetrain (yet!!!), it's a daily driver in good weather and a garage queen in bad weather.

I really appreciate all the info, folks...never having heard of that brand I was a bit suspicious that the mechanic had tried to line his pockets at my expense, but he had always dealt honestly with me and I am now convinced that he was honest with this transaction, too.

All's well that ends well...we'll see how this ends. I refuse to drive the vehicle on the roads until those 20 year old BFG's are replaced...that's the next step.

Cheers!

Dugly :cool:

Luk clutches usually have their name stamped on the pressure plate housing. It is usually on the outside in small letters . Many other manufacturers use their housings though. Centerforce is one of them, so it still may not be a Luk clutch.