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Unable to Move the Torque Converter Backward and Away from the Flex Plate
We're getting close to being able to pull the 460 block. All that's left is to slide the torque converter back and away from the flex plate, then remove the engine block to bell housing bolts.
For some reason, my B&M C6 transmission does not have a removable inspection plate. We ended up removing the four torque converter nuts via the starter hole in the engine back plate. Problem is, we cannot get the torque converter to slide backward, deeper into the bell housing. We tried gently tapping on the studs with a hammer, but the converter won't move. Interestingly, when we turn the engine using a breaker bar and a deep socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, it's pretty obvious that the torque converter is loose, as the studs wobble in their holes. I do not wish to pull out the torque converter with the engine and risk damage to the converter, the input shaft, or the pump. I'm not even sure that I have enough clearance at the front of the engine to move it that far forward without removing the radiator. That torque converter should be able to slide backward, far enough to completely clear the flex plate. Any ideas? |
Todd,
Is it possible the torque converter is being trapped by the bell housing? I've always pulled the engine/trans as a unit, so haven't a clue; it seems likely there's not enough room in the bell housing for the converter to slide back that far. I have pulled the trans separately, but always with the converter in place. Just trying to guess with you at this point... Tom PS: A second (and more logical) guess: the torque converter possibly can't slide backward on its spline. There is a seal at the front of the C-6 transmission just behind the spline. It looks like the rear of converter rides against it, so if you wiggle the converter, it may be damaging that seal... It would make sense to remove the radiator and slide the engine forward if you don't want to remove the trans. I'd put the nuts back on the converter first. |
Sometimes the converter can stick on the spigot.
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Converter doesn't slide back far enough to clear flex plate normally. Support the bell housing with a jack so trans doesn't drop when engine removed. With motor supported evenly, give it a wiggle when it comes apart. Converter should disengage from flex plate. When reinstalling verify converter is fully inserted into trans first. Consider cutting an access hole in separator plate for converter nut reinstall. Putting engine/trans in as a lump seems less stressful overall, it worked on my F5.
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If all of the bolts are removed between the converter and the flex plate, that's all you need. Just remove the bolts between the block and the trans, and pull the motor.
Most converters don't "slide back" much more than 1/8" or so anyway. |
I found this discussion at Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum for installing a transmission. Apparently, all the talk about the converter being able to slide backward only applies to non-Ford converters that are bolted into place. Most Ford converters use studs and nuts, not bolts.
"On all the Ford automatics I've hooked up I lined up the studs with the holes as there never is enough room to spin the converter after it's bolted up. If the converter is seated properly into the transmission, when trans is bolted to the engine you should still be able to wiggle the converter back and forth slightly. I have never seen a studded converter spin behind the flex plate. Only converters that are held in place with bolts will do this. It has to be loose, so check to make sure it will move before tightening it, but you may only be able to feel the slop in the stud holes. IMHO, not one of Fords better ideas, but once you get it together, it's done." |
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