Correct clutch fork?
 

I have a Lakewood scattershield, 351w, external hydraulics and a toploader.

I had my mechanic replace my engine because he has a lift and generally goes good work. His shop is cleaner than 90% of the commercial kitchens I work in.

I'm prior military and when something mechanical and cheap is staring me in the face while disassembled, I change it. Belts, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, etc.

Wrench calls me up at 4pm and says the fork doesn't fit right.

Told him to wait and I'd see him in the morning.

Two hours later I get a call. "She's ready and I need my lift".

Fifteen miles later, something popped and I cant disengage my clutch.

Will be interesting to see some pics of what is your parts failure here.

Was the "pop" from your knee or the clutch?:confused:

Were you depressing the clutch when the pop occurred? I also have SBF but stroker 302 and Lakewood Bellhousing. My release fork is a mid 70’s F100/150 style (no longer available and no replacement part). Mine pivots across a thru bolt held by a U bracket. You may have one of those style of fork with an actual pivot ball as the fulcrum point. The only thng I can think is if there were fitment issues and the fork wasn’t on that pivot securely, that when you depressed, it slipped off with a pop. Given how much hydraulic force is needed to work the release fork, I’m guessing it would have been a metallic pop.

My clutch isn’t working at all (post on fork travel). I replaced my flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate but didn’t carefully measure new .vs. old and the fingers on my pressure plate are has high as what I replaced. I had to space out the U bracket holding the pivot bolt guessing that 3/4” fork travel would be enough to articulate the fingers of the pressure plate (translates to a 3/8”) push. I guessed wrong. So I’m left trying to figure out if I can space enough to get my clutch to work OR ...

...Look into another solution. Tilton and I think McLeod make a hydraulic throwout bearing for T5/TKO/Toploader (and a others). I’m looking into that as a solution. If for some reason the fork you have just isn’t going to work, that may be a solution. Based on what I’ve uncovered, you need a 7/8” master push enough fluid and you have limit clutch pedal travel as at least the Tilton has no internal limit. Over traveling the hydraulic TO will destroy it. This is what I’ve read, I have not implemented this solution so please do your research if you think that might be what you need to do, if you can’t locate a fork. (You know it occurred to me that maybe contact Lakewood as they may have a solution). Heck I just thought of this myself! (Off to email Lakewood on MY problem).

Thanks for the input. My local down the road parts house couldn't locate one in their system. I'm looking for a 69-73 Mustang fork and am going to give it a whirl. Over a hundred years of experience at the counter and no luck.

Went to my second go to place with over forty years for one guy behind the counter located one in Nashville for $22 and will get here Tuesday. That kind of sucks because a medical procedure cancelled in March due to the China Virus is scheduled for Wednesday.

Gaz, I don't think it was mechanical failure. I feel sure it's the incorrect part.

Does seem odd that you had 15 miles of clutch operation, and then "pop".

I guess your mechanic should warrant his work on this, whatever has happened.

Others may or may not agree but I would avoid going with the HTO. I was replacing or rebuilding every year. Switched to the external and have been trouble free for a long time now (knocking on wood as I type this). Mike Forte at Fortes Parts Connection may have what you need.

Good Luck, John

Do you have the original fork?

I replaced mine as the original showed some wear. I measured and compared it online- mine was just a common mustang fork.

It really shouldn't be able to pop off under operation- something was jury rigged badly or installed way off.

-Dave