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Shift knob stuck
This is one of those questions that's almost too stupid to ask, but here goes anyway.
I have a T-56 with an 'original-style' angled shift lever and knob mounted in a Contemporary Classics. I need to replace the torn/dry rotted shift boot, I know the knob spins off, and then there should be an allen set screw underneath to remove the reverse lock-out lever, and then i can replace the boot. Should be simple enough, but a gorilla must have spun the knob on because it isn't budging by hand. Next step will involve some sort of strap wrench or long handled channel locks, but that makes me a little nervous. A) I'd rather not mar the knob surface. B) I'd really rather not damage the shift lever itself. C) I'd really really rather not damage any of the linkage arms or trans internals by exerting too much force in the wrong way on the wrong piece. So if any one has any tips/trick on how to gently deal with a stubborn shift knob, I'm all ears. |
That question is more common than you think. A rubber strap wrench usually takes it off with no scratching/marring. Something like this:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1000_.jpg |
Does your knob have the chrome jam bezel below the knob? You might need to try and losen that first.
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I've never seen one that didn't have a lock nut
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Quote:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/knob002.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/knob001.jpg |
If you don't have a jambnut then probably it was installed with Loctite.
You can heat the shifter lever shaft with a heat gun just below the Knob and it will liquify the Loctite. Or Lift the boot up and remove the the two bolts attaching the shifter lever to the shifter then pull the boot off. Or Wrap the knob with two layers of duct or masking tape. Install a screw type hose clamp around the largest circumference area of the knob. Then you can use Channel-locks to remove the knob without marring the finish. |
patrickt, I have one of those strap wrenches and it worked perfectly. Its funny to me because I bought it for something on my boat, so in my mind it was a "boat tool" and I didn't even think to try it at first. Stupid brain. :rolleyes:
No locktite, just a jambnut (I take it that is the separate metallic "base" of the knob?) that was a little rusted and stuck with age, one it broke free the assembly came off without issue. Thanks guys for the help. Quick followup Q. I've read differing accounts about the reverse lockout. Some I've seen reference an allen head screw in there to remove the lockout assembly then the boot would slide over. Elsewhere I've read the assembly doesn't come off because it it fused to the cable inside. And the solution would be to carefully manipulate the top of the boot around the lift lever. Seems a little risky, but I can't even see if there is a hex nut to verify if it might be removable. Anyone have insight as to what the right move is now? |
I changed my boot out for a Sunbeam Tiger boot. It looks the same, but is made of a lighter rubber so the gear does not pop out of third anymore. Yes, I've heard of guys slipping the boot over the arms of the T lever but the easiest way is to just remove the two bolts that hold she shifter to the transmission. Now, I would recommend that you safety wire the two bolts as the vibration has a tendency to loosen them. Yes you can Loctite them, but nothing really beats safety wire, especially when you want to take them back out. Here's a pic of mine:
http://38.134.118.239/an6_sf.jpg |
For the record, I got it done by carefully slipping the edges of the boot around the T levers, one side at a time.
And for what it is worth, I looked at undoing the whole lever via the 2 bolts, but in my case the base of the shift lever looked to be about as large around as the stretch needed from the top, so in my case sliding over top was the path of least resistance. Thanks for the helpful advice. |
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