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On a single disc clutch the air gap is more a function of making sure the clutch linkage completely releases the clutch (disc) than a component stack up as in a multi-disc clutch. If you are short in the air gap department make sure your clutch linkage allows the clutch fingers to be properly and completely depressed without going over center. Ed p.s. The Rob McDowell pins are similar to the Lakewood pins but available in different offsets. The actual alignment process is much easier if done the way the link in my earlier post showed. Extra added benefit is the method in the write up can easily get to a zero run out figure. No matter who makes the offset dwell pins you are not going to be able to do that. Most of the time you are lucky to get within 0.010" run out and the next time you remove the bel housing pins can shft and you are back in the alignment business with more years on your personal age odometer and less patience to fiddle with the offset dowels. |
I bled the system today, got no air, I did extend the clutch pedal push rod, I have about 1.5” of travel before it feels like it’s starting to move the HTOB , clutch starts grabbing about an inch off of the stop, had a little improvement in shifting, but no improvement at high speed and RPM, on a very slight incline in gear car will start to roll when pedal is about an inch from the pedal stop,I will have to put it on the lift to check air gap in the coming days. Everything is new except BH. When speed shifting it hangs up a split second before engaging
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One way to test if your clutch is not fully disengaging: With the vehicle stopped and idling, transmission in neutral, depress the clutch, wait at least 3-5 seconds and attempt to put the transmission in reverse, if the gears grind/chatter the clutch is not fully disengaged. If no issues, you're clutch adjustment is probably good.
Make sure you have the proper lube in your toploader. The following recommendations are consistent with my experience, although copied from a mustang website. As far as lube preferences go, the toploader experts suggest staying away from synthetic lubricants as they tend to hinder the function of the brass blocking rings (which need to have some “grab” for the transmission to shift properly.) Therefore it is best to stick with a conventional 85-90wt lube. Also, if you are using a Hurst Competition Plus type shifter, you might consider freshening it up at this time in order to get better shifts. For details of how to clean it up, I suggest the following tech article: http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/tra...t-shifter.html Hope it's an easy fix. John |
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nylon linkage bushings used by Hurst tend to "smear" from sport shifting. That ever increasing linkage slop causes misalignment and hard shifts. Paul Cangialosi duplicated the nylon bushings out of tool steel and also redesigned the retention springs not to pop off (which they can do). Paul's bushing/spring set ensures my Comp Plus/Toploader shifts perfectly, every gear every time. Even when I row those gears hard. Here's a link to the product and also Paul's Youtube video explaining how his bushing will improve the quality of your gear shifts for just $20. https://www.5speeds.com/cart/index.p...&product_id=76 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_40q7wbeoRQ |
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https://www.holley.com/products/driv.../parts/3327302 |
Guys, He replaced bushings with bronze ones - post #7
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In short, the Hurst Pit Pack bushings improve reliability but are produced with powdered metal that can fracture/crack vs using tool steel. |
Thought that I would purchase a pack and have them on hand just in case, and they are out of stock!:(
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For a point of interest, some disks in jet engines are "powdered" metal. That is a critical rotating component.
There are massive differences in powdered metals. Some are crap some are really tough. John |
If the pilot bearing is tight to the transmission main shaft or not properly lubricated you will have shifting issues.
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You guys nailed it,turned my thinking around. Shifter was slightly out of adjustment one rod took 2 turns another took 1. And going back through my records it had 85W140 synthetic gear oil recommended by Dan Williams in a 1996 instruction sheet, I also have another sheet from him undated recommending conventional oil. Had a hard time finding GL4 85W90 conventional oil but finally did and it shifts like butter. Thanks to all
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Great news! Oil and shifter linkage adjustment......
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