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What shifter did original cobras have?
More to the point is there a better solution than the hurst competition plus with custom handle? I don't mean to offend anyone selling this solution but I'm fairly disappointed with it. It's real hard to get into the reverse side. Ideally I'd expect the lockout trigger on the handle to actually work.
Chuck Brandt http://www.chuckbrandt.com/toploadershfter.jpg |
The original cars used Ford shift linkage with a modified Mustang handle. As simple as you can get. I've never seen an aftermarket shifter that used the reverse lockout handle.
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So are you saying the reverse lockout didn't work on the originals either?
I'm confused. Did the reverse lockout trigger work on the original cars or not?
Thanks, Chuck |
It looks like NPD has most parts reproduction.
It looks like NPD has most parts in reproduction form for the ford mustang shifter. They want a $150 core charge so it'd probably be best to track down an original one. It seems odd to me that noone has gone down this road before. Is the stock shifter that bad? Seems like a real business opportunity... hint hint :) If people will pay $350-$450 for the cheesy hurst solution wouldn't they pay $500 for something decent? Then after the top loader model takes off you can expand your line to include the 5speeds? Somebody call the SBA for a loan!
Chuck http://www.chuckbrandt.com/mustangshifter.jpg http://www.chuckbrandt.com/shifterparts.jpg |
Chuck,
Yes, the lockout worked on the original cars. |
Thanks
Thanks Bob, sorry if I offended anyone. It isn't really that bad of a shifter, I was probably just naive in thinking it would be more original than it is.
It's in my office and as I shift through the gears periodically throughout the day (vroom vroom sound optional) it does seem to be loosening up slightly. I think one _could_ get a reproduction / rebuilt mustang shifter and modify the handle to be more authentic. But you'd probably have $600 - $700 in it by the time you were done. Not sure I'm quite there yet, will just live with this one a while and see. Thanks, Chuck |
Chuck,
Interesting you want to revert back to the original slopply, non-positive shifter. I couldn't wait to get rid of the original shifter and replace it with a Hurst unit on my '66 High Performance Mustang top loader. Huge improvement. This is the same setup I have on my ERA toploader. The reverse lockout on the shifter in the ERA that operates a Hurst shifter is for maintaining the original looks, but for positive shifting. The positive lockout isn't needed because the reverse and 3-4 gates are spring loaded. To shift to reverse, you have to pull the shifter to the left or push to the right for the 3-4 gate. Let the shifter go while it's in neutral and the shifter lines up with the 1-2 gate. By the way, the Mustang's original shifter is still residing in a box on the shelf in storage where it belongs. Except for needing new bushings after 25 years, the Hurst shifter works great.;) |
I don't know about the application for a Top Loader tranny but the Richmond Gear 5sp work best with a LONG shifter assembly. I currently run a Comp Plus Hurst and have a couple of different issues with it and will be swapping it out this fall/winter. LONG's phone number is 717-867-1303 and I spoke with a Brian Good. Best wishes!
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I have never used an original one.
Tom -
I just wasn't real wild about how hard it is to get into reverse. At least on mine you have to pull it over hard enough that the mounting plate flexes. Then it snaps like you are breaking something. Does your hurst work like that? Or did it when new? I've never used an original one, I'm kind of interested to try. Want to sell yours? Chuck |
By their website LONG doesn't have a toploader stick.
Thanks Tony,
Looks nice though, I guess they just don't support _old_ transmissions. CDB |
Chuck,
What you might need to do is adjust the shifter. Except for access, there's not much too it. You'll have to do this from below or remove the tunnel. To see if adjusting is what's needed, place the shifter/trans in neutral and try sliding a dowel/drill (should be about 3/16") through the shifter body and all levers. You should see a notch at the bottom of the shifter body. If it slides in easily, the shifter is adjust correctly. If it doesn't you need to adjust it. To make the adjustment, disconnect the levers at the threaded ends (don't lose those unobtainium clips). Slide the dowel/drill in place, then rotate each end (trunnion) until it lines up with and slides into the shift lever with bushing in place. Replace the retaining spring clip. Oh, make sure the bushing is in good shape while you're at it. Replace it if it's not. Do this with each lever and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how much better your shifter works. Good luck.:3DSMILE: |
Chuck
Mine was hard too shift at first, But the more I drive it the easer it gets. I only have about 700mi. so far. Mike |
It does it with the alignment pin in.
Tom - I thought so too at first and adjusted it again. But the problem happens with no rods attached and the alignment pin in.
Chuck |
Thanks Mike - I hope that is the case for me too.
I'll live with it a while and see.
Thanks all, Chuck |
Hurst Comp Plus linkage, has all the problems as noted above. It IS adjusted properly. In my opinion this shifter is junk. Getting into the reverse gate is indeed a struggle and it sounds like it's "breaking something" when you do!
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Update
I ended up going a different direction, I got a ford/mustang based shifter from the Kirkhams and I really like it. The good folks at ERA even took care of my picky nature and agreed to take the Hurst one back, they are good people :) The mustang shifter may not be for everyone, it's kind of a quirky design. But the reverse lockout works as designed and it's very original. It uses a rebuilt mustang shifter body, modified handle, hiem jointed linkage with aluminum shift arms. Pretty slick.
Thanks, Chuck http://www.chuckbrandt.com/shifter.jpg |
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