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throw out bearing and clutch trouble
Thank you all for your interest and help on my clutch. As you may recall, unlike the Kirkham group, and at Southern's (and my friend John Dillman's, the brains behind this project) STRONG SUGGESTION, I used an external slave setup. (The car is KMP #174, 427 SO, toploader) With the 3/4" Wilwood MC from Kirkham, the amount of fluid being moved just wasn't enough for that 1" slave to do it's job. Tried the 1" Tilton, which worked relatively well, but there was only a minimum of clutch travel and you needed the legs of Charles Atlas to disengage the beast. In addition, the Tilton installation was a *****; barely enough room between the frame and the firewall to accomodate it.
Ultimately, I went with a CNC 7/8" MC. It was vastly easier to install, as it is about 1" shorter than the Tilton. Used the Wilwood rod and Clevis setup, made some adjustments to the pivot bracket in the Lakewood bellhousing, and Viola, it worked! Nice smooth clutch, tho' I'm certain that no 100# girls will be stealing my car! thanx again for your help. steve meltzer "never enough time to do it right....always enough time to do it over". |
Steve,
Is there any chance you took pictures of your set-up? I am thinking of an alternative to my internal McLeod set-up. Clois |
Clois - What's wrong with your internals?%/
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I'm with Clois, I'd like to see a photo or two.
Sounds like a slick setup. |
Clois, I didn't take any pictures, but I can. I used the CNC with some O'Reilly
3/16" brake lines. Email me directly and I'll try to take some. steve |
I spoke to Wilwood a while ago about the same issues. The engineer told me they suggest the 3/4" MC be used to push the 7/8" CNC slave. However, he also strongly suggested 1/4" line, not 3/16". He said the pedal pressure would be much easier with 1/4" line. He was right. I built a custom bracket for the install of the CNC sl;ave. Bolted to the lip of the Lakewood bell. Woks great!
Dan |
The idea of using a 3/4" Wilwood MC and a 7/8" slave was definitely on our minds, but the engine, bellhousing, clutch and tranny were all in when we discovered that the setup we had (3/4 MC; 1" Wagner Lockheed slave) wouldn't work. We didn't want to have to fabricate a bracket, esp. with the engine in the car, etc., so that's why we didn't go with that setup, but it should work in theory, and apparently does work well in reality! Anyone who want pictures just drop me an email and i'll see what I can do this week. thanx steve.
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You have mail. |
Tony,
My throw out bearing leaks at the banjo fittings just like several told me it would early on. I have ruined two new clutch discs and want to figure out a better system. I have had no luck finding acceptable fitting to do away with the banjo set up. Right now I am just trying to cut my losses (stop the bleeding) with the McLeod setup. Clois |
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Clois,
They have re-engineered the whole assembly and got rid of the banjo fittings alltogether. I was told I could send my unit back in and they would upgrade the whole thing for free. I'm not experiencing problems and never have but plan on taking advantage of the offer this Spring. Thought you might want to know. |
banjo QC
Cobra,
The problem with the banjo's is there are many that are way out of tolerance. They should not have been released in my opinion, and many other folks. Either the stems are undersized or the bore on the banjo is oversized. With the "o" rings removed the defective banjo literally rattles on the stem. With the "o" rings in place, you can still move the end of the banjo a VERY significant distance up and down, so of course pressure. They have a new housing, but the reports are it is like pulling teeth to get information on it. Why they would do that is beyond me, hardly good relations with the customers. It may be as simple as there are so many units out they don't want to talk about, but I would assume if you sent one back to be rebuilt, it would get the new housing...the new housing is as good as the old housing is bad. Someone posted on the earlier thread they did change out the housing but charged for it. Galling to pay to fix a factory defect, but the new one works. I have a few thousand miles on mine since last April, still leak free. That said, if you can fit an external clutch slave (and the pedal effort is ok)...do it, the internal t/o always has the potential to be a pain. Pete |
Steve-
Where did you purchase your CNC Slave Clylinder. I've got a Kirkham on order and this clutch thing has been heavy on my mind. I do not want to use an internal hydralic throw out because I heard they leak. Please let us know your source. Thanks |
Here are the two places that carry CNC stuff that I know of. Surprisingly, CNC themsleves was higher in price.
CNC master cylinder McKenzie’s 714-441-1212 California CNC master cylinder Chassis (something or other) 231-873-3640 Michigan I got mine from the outfit in Mich, as they had it in stock. Let me know if I can help you in any way. Congrats on your purchase. I've created a little document, outlining some of the things I've learned on the way, but i've got a few more things to put in it. If you're interested, I could send it to you. steve |
got my slave cylinder at Speedway Motors - 1-800-736-3733, about $50.00. They have both push and pull types. The pull tyoe is Wilwood, and the push type is CNC.
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Steve Metzler-
Thank you for the info on the CNC Slave Cylinder. I'll keep in touch and let you know how it all works out. Bruce |
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