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Toploader rebuild
Anyone here ever rebuilt their own Toploader 4-speed? If you did,what problems did you run into? What special tools were required?
Thanks Scott |
I rebuilt mine. It's not that bad....you'll need a good set of snap ring pliers and a bearing press.
I didn't run into any problems at all....just followed the drawing. Two pointers: 1. Make sure you put the interlock pin back in. 2. Make sure you install the shifter cams and new o-rings BEFORE you install all the shafts, shifter forks, etc. Otherwise, you'll have to strip it all the way back down to put those in. Don't ask me how I know that. :) |
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Thanks! that was exactly what I needed. Scott |
Scott, you may already know this, but I'll mention it anyway. I learned the hard way 'DO NOT' use any super slick lubricant or synthetic, the TL synchronizers need a little resistance to align and shift properly. I had to flush mine three times before it was completely removed. Live and learn.......
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Hey, is the racetrack still in Senoia? If it is, is still dirt or has it now been paved? My dad use to race there many many years ago. Scott |
I called David Kee to get parts and he told me the entire proceedure while on the line. I sort of wish I had the recommended puller for removing the main shaft ( CRS not helping here ). I think it was for getting the front bearing off to work the main shaft out of the case.
White grease on the rollers! Should take you about four hours if you have tools, but depends on how much you are replacing. :D |
http://www.toploaderheaven.com/
They will sell you the tools, CD-R instructions and everything you need to Rebuild your toploader. You don't need a press either. I pulled my trans rebuilt it and was back on the road in 11 hours. I didn't need any new gears so All I had to do is put it back together. To install the input shaft bearing all you need is a blowdryer and a freezer. No kidding! the detents where the biggest pain to put back in. Mark is a great guy to deal with. |
How'd you change the mainshaft bearing? If I remember, the shaft won't go in or come out with it on.
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Yeah, the track is still here, they paved it few years back and I believe it's the fastest 3/8 mile in the southeast?. I've only been 3-4 times but, I really enjoy the wannabes, some of them stay with it and become good drivers.
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There is an order of steps to follow to get to this point I assuming you are talking about the output shaft bearing.
You use your case as a table to knock the bearing off with a piece of hardwood and a 4# hammer. The shift rods, forks,cluster gear counter shaft, input shaft and bearing are all removed. Cluster gear is dropped out of the way in the case. Bearing come off the shaft with a couple of hits. Have friend hold the shaft so it won't drop to the floor.Then engage the syncro assembly into third gear set the case on the edge of the work bench so the shaft has more room to drop down then the loaded shaft comes right out the top of the case. That's why they call it a Toploader. I'm telling you Toploaderheaven has a method and it works. I did not have to leave my shop. They have a step by step CD-R. Very easy to follow.I left a few minor details out but I hate to type.:D |
I have a bearing press in my garage....I was working by myself, so I took the easy way out.
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hehehe.....you can't always possible to follow the instructions.....hehehe
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Thanks for all the responses, I think I will give it a try to rebuild my own.
Scott |
Like Blykins said about the interlock pin:
When I bought my ERA the trans gear shift would occasionally lockup when shifting from reverse to first gear. The trans would be in one gear or the other but the linkage would be stuck in between the two gears. MAJOR freakin' head ache!! Turns out it was MISSING that tiny little 'inter lock' pin. That pin can fall out of position real easy during reassembly. It's so small it's easy to overlook, but it's SO important. |
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