Tunnel Removal on an SPF
 

My Tremec TKO is stuck in third. :confused: I talked to Tremec and they told me what it probably is. I have to remove the tunnel to get to the top of the tranny.

Any tips on how to go about this process. :confused:

Thanks is advance.

Kurt

I had the trans tunnel of SPF887 off a couple of years ago. The sealant used by SPF is tough stuff, but it is still much easier than pulling the engine and trans. We used body calk strips to seal the tunnel when it went back together.

It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words....
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0&ppuser=14970

hope this helps,
Jim Kellogg 887
Elmira, NY

Thanks.. The photo is a big help... Did you have to unhook the dash support rods?

Kurt

When I did my installation last month, I figured it would be better/easier if the tunnel were removed, so I removed it. That black goo is awful, and I thought it might be a good idea to seal it another way, just in case it has to come out again. So I got some adhesive-backed closed cell foam (like they use to seal pickup toppers) and after cleaning off all the goo, stuck that around the perimeter. Sealed up just fine. The tunnel sits behind the dash supports, so you won't have to fool with those. There are 11 allen-head countersunk screws to remove. Then try working the front bottom corners off first. It ain't easy until you get a little separation, then it gets easier. It also helped to have 2 people, one working from below to push and one above to pull. Once the front is off, the rest is a piece of pie. And it sure saved lots of work (lots more than it took to remove and reinstall the tunnel) when it was time to measure the driveshaft angle and shim the transmission. Use brake cleaner to dissolve the goo...works great. Let me know if you can do it without getting your hands black.

I guess it's obvious, but remove the seats & belts and parking brake lever (you'll love putting that back in). My left seat came right out, but what a bear to put back in - the studs didn't line up. Had to slightly "modify" one lug with a big fits-all wrench to get it back in.

One more thing - the carpet pulls up easily, and mine did not need new glue to put it back (I had some standing-by, but didn't need it).

Kurt,
The dash support rods do not have to be removed (they are in front of the removable section of the tunnel).

TTMB,
Great step by step instructions!! Should help make the job easier for the next SPF owner who has to pull their trans tunnel. Once you have removed it for the first time, subsequent removals (if needed) should be a piece of cake.

Jim Kellogg 887
Elmira, NY

[quote=
Once you have removed it for the first time, subsequent removals (if needed) should be a piece of cake.[/QUOTE]

Well, easier anyhow. When I put mine back in, it still was a very tight fit.

Tom

By the way, Jim, what did Tremec think the problem was and is it something you can fix without taking the whole transmission out? (Another benefit of removing the tunnel is that you can pull the transmission out with a hoist.) Sounds like you can fix it in car.

Tom

Tom,
At least you won't have to deal with the black goo on subsequent removals :)

Kurt didn't say what caused the TKO to stick in third, but I have heard of cases where the internal shift rails in the shifter extension have locked into "2" gears at a time. From what I've heard, this only happens when shifting into/out of gear with the clutch out/engine off (usually when pushing by hand and then slipping into gear to hold the vehicle, or when moving the shifter to neutral without pushing in the clutch to disengage the trans).

Should be an easy fix (trans removal not needed) if this is what happened. Problem is getting to it!!!

Kurt, what caused your TKO to stick in 3rd??

Jim Kellogg 887
Elmira, NY

No clue on wht caused it. I just pulled into a parking lot and into a parking space and it would not come out of third. I see someone else posted the exact same problem with a TKO600.

"I see someone else posted the exact same problem with a TKO600."

Yeah, that was me. I just updated that thread with my understanding of what caused my problem. Fixing the locked tranny was easy. Getting the tunnel off was a major pain, and getting it back on was worse.
Good luck Iceberg!

One tip - when you are working around goo or grease is to pick up a box of
the latex or better yet nitrile(sp) gloves - you just heave-em and grab a
new pair when the get dirty. Sure saves the hands.

I'm having my spf eng/tko600 installed now and am going to cut and seal an access hole in the tunnel....

SJK2 - Excellent idea! If I ever have mine off again, I'm going to do the same thing.

Are there any bolts or screws holding the cover in place or is it just held there by the goo? How do you get it off?

October-1881:

There are 10 (older cars like yours) or 11 (newer cars) screws that secure the transmission tunnel, along with the aforementioned goo. To remove it, first remove the seats, left side of passenger seat belt, and the parking brake handle. Lift carpet around the edges of the tunnel to locate and remove the screws (no need to remove the carpet from the tunnel). Go lift some weights to get in shape so you can wrestle with the goo. Start at the front and pry/lift the tunnel, working your way to the rear. Eventually it will come off. If possible, have a helper under the car to push up. That's it. Except for putting it back!