Toploader question...or two
 

Well, after planning on a Tremec for my build, I happened upon a toploader at a decent price which looks very good from what can be seen of the inside. The guy swears up and down that it works great, but is there anything you would replace or at least check before putting it in the car? I believe in the "If it aint broke, don't fix it" saying, but I also dont want to have to take it out after getting the car put together for something simple. All Syncros look nice and squared off, no chipped gears, and it spins freely.

Number two- according to the numbers, it is out of a 67-68 Mustang with a 390...but it also has numbers stamped on the front edge drivers side of transmission, just behind where it mounts to the bellhousing. According to David Kee's website, these numbers indicate it was for a CJ, SCJ, Boss, or Mach. This to me makes no sense as 69 was first year for Machs and Bosses, and the only CJ and SCJ I am aware of are 428's. Am I missing something here?

The numbers are RUG-M2, 02837, and on the side, near the top cover are C8AR-7006-D W2. Can anyone decipher these numbers?

Thanks,
Greg

Well considering the fact that people swap parts around on these things like crazy, it is what it is.

I just bought a Toploader.....RUG AJ....Kee's site says it's a big in/big out/close ratio out of a Fairlane. Yet it has a long tailhousing and mainshaft in it from a Torino or such.

There's a list of things to check if you're planning on buying a Toploader and not rebuilding it:

1. The engagement teeth on the bronze blocking rings and ESPECIALLY the gears themselves should be very pointy. If not, if they're flat and squared off, then the trans could shift poorly or slip out of gear.

2. Grab the input shaft and turn it...does it feel smooth or can you feel a noisy bearing?

3. Look at the rear seal and pop the input bearing retainer off and look at that seal...are they soft and pliable...or cracked and dried out?

4. Try to put it into first and third gears at the same time...you may have to unhook the linkages if the shifter is on, but if you can do that, then the interlock pin is missing and the trans will need to come apart...no questions asked.

Like I said, I just bought one and after I got it home (I had the intention of a total rebuild anyway) I could find several things wrong with it right off the bat....outer detent springs missing, flattened gear engagement teeth on 2nd and 3rd gears, etc.

Go with your gut...but check some of the obvious things.

All CJ/SCJ tranny's are big input. All 390 4 speeds are small input.

The transmission should be gone over for piece of mind.

It takes about four hours to take it apart, look it over ( bascially ) and put it back together. If you haven't done it before, double that time. Replace anthing that looks worn, broken or FUBARed.

Just my $0.02

As a precaution, I would change out the rear seal and the input bearing gasket. Those are a five minute job. You could change out the input bearing--it isn't very hard since, unlike a Muncie, the input comes out from the front of the case. If the tranny has been sitting for some period of time, rust and corrosion can set in.

Thanks for the answers. I might just go ahead and try to rebuild it myself. I have been trying to get ahold of David since Monday, but he has not returned my call.

Does anyone know why you cant use a FT bellhousing on toploaders? Is it anything to do with the extra 1/2" in length of the truck bellhousing, or is it something to do with the clutch or something? Again, I have been trying to get ahold of David, and i'd just like to know if the bellhousing I have will work or not.

Thanks again,
Greg

David may be on his way back from Columbus, OH. He was at the swap meet there last Saturday.

I think the FT bellhousing has a different depth.

If I remember, a regular FE bellhousing is 6.560" from flange to flange.

Thanks Brent. Yea, I was at the same swap meet, but the thing was basically over on Saturday before I found out he was there. The whole thing was kind of a spur of the moment type thing. From what I understand, the FT bellhousing is 1/2" longer (6.75" instead of 6.25" or something) which would make the 390 type pilot 1/2" too short, but I cant see why they wouldnt work with the longer pilot. There must be a reason David says they cant be used, but I am not sure if this is why. I worked my butt off cleaning one up and painting it before I even knew there was a difference in the bellhousings. LOL

I also seen your post about the short tailhousing after I went to the swap meet. There was one there that was attached to a rusted inside toploader that the guy would have basically sold the whole trans. for next to nothing. Im assuming you have already found one though. Anyway, thanks again. If I decide to tear into this TL I have now, I might have to bend your ear again, as you seem to be pretty sharp on them.

Thanks,
Greg

I'll do what I can to help out....but I'm not as sharp as some of the others here. This one will make my second rebuild....but I enjoy doing it.

They're not bad to rebuild. Just takes some time and concentration. :D