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Slave Cylinder / Clutch Setup
I tried to take my Cobra out today for its first spin and could never get the clutch to fully engage to shift the car. Just did not sound right either when I pushed in the clutch pedal, no grinding, no burning smell but a different spinning noise as thought the clutch just is not fully engaged. But could be something else so I wanted to post suggestions here before I work on it tomorrow. How do I know its be engaged before starting and trying to shift? Is there a way to tell as I am working on it?
I have a Willwood slave with a .78 bore, pull type on a TKO 500 with a Centerforce Dual friction clutch and throwout bearing. Titon master cylinder with a 1.0" bore. |
Well, I suppose you could be out of adjustment.
Get her up in the air. Unscrew the rods that takes up the play until you can jiggle it and push in against the fork with about 1/16 or less space. Then adjust it up so it just rests with pressure on the fork. Ask someone to sit in the car and have them press the clutch all the way in. The fork usually moves somewhere between 5/8" to 1 full inch. I like 3/4". See if it moves enough. If not, you may need to make some changes in the master or slave. My 7/8 inch slave was okay, but I had a .7 master for my ford clutch. When I changed to a dual disc like yours, I had to go to 1 inch. Just my $0.02 :D |
Is the fork pivot on the passenger side, or drivers side?
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Fork sits on the drivers, pivots on the passenger.
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This has been an issue for me since I swapped the hydraulic throwout for the slave/fork. I have everything adjusted out all the way and I still feel like I need just a bit more. There are adjustments for the linkage itself in the footwell and you should be able to unscrew the rod that goes into the master a bit to give you more throw. I am not familiar with what came with the Lonestar, but you shouldnt have to mess with the master. You should be able to get it dialed in with the linkage and slave.
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My experience with the pivot on the passenger's side was not good. I was told it was for a cable set up. There just was not enough fork travel at the throwout bearing to work correctly. I ended up pulling the gearbox and changing to a driver's side pivot, and now have more than enough travel at the TO bearing. This can be done with stock, bolt on parts. Brad |
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With the pass. side pivot I continued to adjust the pivot ball, to try to gain more TO bearing travel, to the point the fork was interfering with the pressure plate housing. With the drivers side pivot, I used the pedal adjustment, adjusted to the floor, as a pedal stop, to limit the TO travel.
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When the slave is mounted to the frame the movement of the motor can change the distance ( adjustment ) of the slave.
We build a bracket and mount the slave to the trannie / bellhousing and not the frame. Dwight |
Dwight, I am very intersted in the bracket. I have seen brackets now, after installation of course, for the application but all I have seen are a kit, in which I do not need 90% of the parts. All I want is the trannny bracket for the Willwood slave I have, I have everything else. Can you PM me? I am very interested if you have such a bracket. Hmmmm, how is that going to work with a pull type slave?
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UPDATE;
I have my car on jack stands and have shifted it into 1st while trying to adjust it. I have done it in very small intervals starting with no resistance at all on the fingers to complete adjsutment and still no luck. I have adjusted the fork until it not hits the inside lip of the opening on the lakewood bell housing, so I can not adjust anymore. It sill is not enough pressure or something else is wrong. Burgs; can you tell me how much the diaphram needs to be pushed in? This would tell me if I need to completely change this or not. Can you give me a measurement from the time the TB touches the fingers? 1/2" etc. to release the clutch? Bluerooster; why didn't you stay with the hydraluic TB? Most people convert from fork to hydraulic. Curious, seems like the hydraulic TB is the way to go. |
My TOB engages my clutch about 3/8" and rests at about .125 away from my clutch fingers.
Are you able to get enough pressure to your clutch to move your clutch rod? Have someone engage your clutch and you lay under your car to determine how much movement you have. I am guessing you still have air in your lines. Clois |
My clutch fork is moving forward at the very end about a 1/2" which I estimate is very little on the fingers, probably 1/8" which is not going to cut it. Its moving but not enough. Centerforce set it will need to push down 3/8 to 7/16" on the fingers which means the fork will have to move an inch or slightly more to get that TB to throw in that much. I can not do that now because my fork is too far forward in the rectangular opening as it hits the bell housing during movement, thus I am 90% sure I have too short of a pivot ball. I have a 2.3" instead of a 2.6". Raising the pivot ball will take the fork back to the rear of the car and then I will have the clearance to get the full stroke out of the willwood slave, thus giving me my 7/16" pull on the TB. Damn, I am going to hate pulling off this tranny.
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I am having a similar problem what was the results? I didn't know until now that there were different lengths for the pivot ball. I don't know which length I have. I do know that the arm is rubbing the pressure plate on the cable side before the clutch is disengaged.
Does anyone know what the requirements are for using the different length pivot balls? |
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