Club Cobra - Hurst shifter linkage interference

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Hurst shifter linkage interference

I'm new to the toploader world, so I must be doing something wrong. I setup the hurst shifter linkage per the instructions, but when I try to put the trans in reverse, the threaded reverse bar hits the 1st/2nd arm on the shifting unit. Additionally, When shifting into 2nd, the arm on the shifter has to work its way around the reverse threaded rod. Do I need to trim the 2 or so inches of extra threads on the reverse arm?

If you used the same Hurst toploader installation kit I purchased this winter, it
does not fit worth a dam.
If I remember correctly I had to reshape all three shift rods in order for them to fit & shift without hitting each other.

Craig

I had the same trouble. Bent one to fit, replaced one with an old one from my "can't throw away junk". Works just fine now.....(David Kee rebuild)...Ron

That's what I needed to know. I'll start tweaking on them, thanks for the responses.

Since it looks like you have a solution, does anyone have a source for oem used or repro shift linkage for a Galaxie toploader?

You may occaaasionally find the rods on Ebay, however I would encourage you to investigate making a better linkage with 3/8" high quality hiem joints and 1/2" mild steel or stainless tubing. Below is a T-10 with the above mentioned linkage, it works very well. This mechanism (w/o rods) was from late 60's Mustang. The vertical "T" lever is about 7-8" long and was sectioned and welded, it was a curved lever previously, the weld is about 3" from the bottom. Reverse lockout cable runs through the center of the vertical shaft. The small lever that was on the reverse fork of the transmission originally would pull backwards (different shift pattern), so I cut the ear of it off and welded it on the bottom so its actuation would coincide with the correct shift pattern. The reverse lever now attaches as you see it instead of being above the pivot point, (if that's confusing PM me and I will attempt to explain better)Actual material is mild steel about 5/8" diameter, easily replicated if facilities are available. I chose to weld existing shaft since it would be hidden under the boot works perfect. Use the best rod ends you can find. The transmission was from a Mustang and originally had the longer tailhousing, I got one from a Falcon and with a few mods it has served me well.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...re_220__2_.jpg

Rick,
The short shifter you are using on your Hurst shifter came from whom? I would like to get the old '60's style Mustang reversed shift lever (stick facing forward). Is a replica lever sold that can be used with a Hurst shifter lever receiver that is a direct bolt in? I'm using a Hurst short lever on my Hurst shifted top loader now but would like the look and better shift access of the original style.

I have the Hurst linkage on my top loader and it has an "old style" longer and reversed shifter that I got from ERA. I don't know if they make them or buy from someone else. Looks original and shifts much better than my old rear angled one.

Dick

FFR Bob,

Sorry to hear the problems you are having. I purchased my Hurst linkage and shifter new from Summit. Bought the linkage that was specific to my year and model trans. Did have to trim one shift rod at the threaded end. Works perfect!

Arntz,

I bought the whole package from David Kee and was a little surprised that I had to install the shifter myself, but it turned out not to be a big deal. If I trim one of the shift rods as you've done, then the problem will be solved. I just wanted to verify that someone else had the same issue before I broke out the cut-off wheel.

I have been watching eBay, but don't often see just the rods. If I can find a way to fab the linkage like you have shown, I will, but I am not good with metal fab...