What is Roush FI Worth?
 

I'm looking to buy a 427 CI SPF. The one I'm drooling over now has a Roush 427 FI, but of course it is more than my "budget". What is the read on the FI? I read nightmare posts on tuning, etc. I'm sure the FI runs great when they are set up correctly. Just looking for some confirmation or tips that the FI would be worth the extra cost. I don't want to pay for the FI and convert to a carb later.

Are you talking about the 427IR? It sure looks sweet, but mine was messed up, probably on the original installation, and I'm getting zero support in getting it fixed.

Edit: My point is that I cannot assess whether the Roush system is good. This is because (1) it has been bad since I got the car, (2) noone here knows anything about the Accel DFI system and (3) I've been relegated to doing most of it myself since noone will touch it.

My advice is that unless you have a resource knowledgeable about the Accel DFI system with a dyno that you should be certain it was installed and tuned properly before you buy it.

Note that Todd told me that Roush has changed from Accel to a different DFI controller - he mentioned who it was but I don't remember. The same warning would apply - you need someone experienced with your DFI system.

All of that aside, the engine is a beauty. The 8-stack has fooled more than one person.

Yes, it is the Roush IR engine. I worry about exactly what you are talking about. When you go on the Roush site there is very little fuel injection info on the site. I suppose I should call one of the Roush engine dealers and ask them. I'm sure you get a manual and more info when you actually buy the engine, but that doesn't mean I will be able to keep it running.

I'm sure my memory is wrong, but I think SandyC in the AZ Cobra Club may have one of the only Cobras that run flawlessly with the FI.

CSX4910 (Ron) has had problems since Day 1 and a bunch of other folks have had FI, though from other manufacturers (Dynatek), that never seem to run exactly 100% right.

I vote for a carbed engine.

Read the posts by CSX4910 regarding his experiences with a Roush FI engine.

And you should try to talk with CSX4910 and twobjshelbys regarding how their fuel-injected Roush engines are doing.

Caveat emptor.%/

obviously Roush would have the brand they have now or be the size company without a lot of happy customers, i am just not one of them. Some companies get so big they lose sight of the people that got them there in the first place. I would think twice about doing a Roush motor but I am obviously biased. The problem with their F.I. system is that it is proprietary and no one else but them can touch it for the most part. Other system's are much more user friendly I am sure. I would for sure not be able to recommend the 511 but i cannot speak for the 427.
Ron

Ron, is yours the Accel DFI system? (I am assuming it is.) The Accel system has been around for a while. The proprietary part of it is the faux Weber 8-stack. The mechanical linkage there is as finicky as a real carbureted engine. My belief is that properly installed (and adjusted) that the system would be as reliable as carbs but give the advantage of some degree of automatic altitude compensation. I live at about 5300' and venture up to the top of Trail Ridge Road at what 12000 or so, and eventually will want to take it to near sea level.

As I said, the root of all my problems is a bad installation from the get go - before I got the car, and probably the reason it was sold. The biggest problem I have is that there is noone around here that will touch the Accel system (independent of the 8-stack).

I bought the Accel "pro cable adapter" that allows monitoring, data logging and adjustment. I've heard one criticism of the Accel system is that it has too many knobs. Todd said they have a new system that is less complicated and easier to install (fewer engine connections).

I'm still hoping that Roush will come through with permission to ship the car to them.

I guess I'm kind of agreeing with Ron - just be careful and be sure that the engine is working well before you buy it.

You could just get the 427R and it would cost less. I'm pretty sure it would be as fast or probably faster than the IR.

I agree 100%. I would avoid the IR like the plague.

EFI, especially the IR is like a german girlfriend.

Your choice may impact your ability to have a good time.

If you dont enjoy concentrating on the technical aspects of your setup, get the carb version.

Thanks again for all the great support!

I had the same question and ended up with the carb'd version (427R), ripped off the holley it came with and installed a Pro-systems carb...and have not looked back since. You won't miss the headaches of the Roush FI.

Right now I have invested too much time and money into this engine to make any changes. I need to find a way to make it work and as long as its under warranty, it is Roush's job and money to fix it. After the warranty is gone that may be another story but right now I just need to get things sorted out. My mechanic said before the starter went out he had it running well , apparently just needed a little time and tweaking to get the motor sync'd back up with the computer. If nothing else, I trust my mechanic and he probably has as much time under the hood with these motors as anyone. There are jsut things like the Fuel Injection system that Roush wont let you adjust much without their software and codes.
The starter is scheduled to arrive on Monday so with any luck by Wednesday I will have the car back and will post updates.
Ron

You're lucky if you have someone who actually can work on the Accel DFI system. There is no one in the area that will even touch mine. You'd think in Denver there would a Roush rep.

I'm somewhere in the middle. I told Todd that if they can't get it running without a limit on the costs then I just want the DFI pulled and converted to the 427R. I'll put up with the altitude issues. Else they can have it back and I'll find a side oiler.

To get any EFI system to work properly, you need proper tune. You can spend thousands on the very best hardware and software, but if it's not tuned correctly, you're sunk. And it really doesn't take any real specialized knowledge to do that. All the software packages available are pretty much the same in operation.

My EFI is from Haltech. It's an OK system for it's time. I struggled with it for about 2 years. It was never right. I was afraid to leave the house without the laptop, as something was always a little off. I was constantly tuning it.

Then I found a local dyno shop that knew what they were doing. In about 3 hours, they had the whole thing tuned perfectly. When they were done with it, I never had to connect the laptop again. It ran perfect in all situations, and is a real joy to drive.

An 8 stack system has it's own issues that have to be addressed before adjusting the computer. The key there is the proper balance. All throttle bodies have to be adjusted so the air flow is Exactly the same. This is crucial. If you skip this step, it will never run right.

If the linkage isn't working right, no amount of dyno tuning will fix that. It's a tedious process, but very important. You have to watch the linkage across the rpm range, and make sure there's no binding or drag. I spent a lot of time making the parts I needed to get my linkage just right. It took me about a week in my spare time until I was happy.


I would recommend two shops that have dynos, and know what they're doing: Lou's Cars, in Littleton, and Revolutions Performance in Colorado Springs. Both shops are real pros and know what they're doing. Lou is "retired" now, and only works on fun projects.

Bobcowan,

Your comments make a lot of sense and ring true. Just about everything is better when done with the correct tools and knowledge. I expect finding the right shop is the key. Thanks for your guidance.