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-   -   Better needles and seats for Webers? (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/weber-tuning/81745-better-needles-seats-webers.html)

Brent Mills 08-25-2007 03:47 PM

Better needles and seats for Webers?
 
I have a seat that has apparently decided that it doesn't like to seal anymore and promises to make a mess of a couple cylinders....Makes me afraid of the others now, as it came on somehwat suddenly. I've tinkered with the needle and seat a bit to try and tell whether some debris caused it, but I just don't trust it anymore as I though it was workin ok, changed the oil again, and it started dumping fuel again. :mad:

Anyways, I recall CalMetal had some better units way back 4-5 years ago, but....Anyone have a line on the good stuff today?

Rick Parker 08-25-2007 07:05 PM

There are some others that are clones of the old G & S Groose Jet. They use a round ball to seal in lieu of a pointed brass "needle" all of my research shows they are only available in a 3.0 size. They are used a lot by the VW drag race crowd. Perhaps if there were enough participants the manufacturer would consider a 2.0 size?? I think the 3.0 + would make the actual fuel control a little questionable although it would certainly flow more than a 2.00.

http://www.geneberg.com/product_info...oducts_id=2787

427Aggie 08-25-2007 07:29 PM

Brent you need to look at something for me. Is the fuel coming out of the pump jet? This could be something other than you needles and seats.

Matt

Brent Mills 08-25-2007 09:21 PM

Matt, it's coming from the bowl overflowing. When I pop the top off, the bowl is full and the float is floating way too high. When I attach the tool I made to set the tang, the float drops down into the fuel, so I know the float is set to the right place. I think that pretty much means the seat is f'd up, right?

Rick Parker 08-25-2007 10:07 PM

Brent:

Remove the needle assembly and put a vacuum source through a hose (Mighty Vac hand pump) on threaded end. It should hold about 14# on the dial for close to 30 seconds before it begins to drop slowly. If not it's a "Leaker".

Eljaro 09-22-2007 01:31 PM

Sometime ago I got a set of those needle valves with the glass ball.
They did not work, leaking 100%.
Here is a tip:
One stubborn leaking weber needle valve brought me to do this:
I got some of the abrasive paste used to grind the valves, managed to get some of it on the tip of the needle and made it turn on the seat with compressed air. Apparently it worked because I have had no leaks from that time.

Full Throttle Al 09-22-2007 02:12 PM

Brent,

Have you tested your pressure regulator to make sure you have less than 3psi to the carbs? Have you traded out the needle and seat with another carb? Does the problem follow the needle and seat or stay with the carb. If it stays with the carb, the casting could have a pinhole or crack in it.

I've had the Webers on my motor for 10 years and only had this problem once, when I removed the needle and seat, blow it out with air, problem went away and never has come back, must have been some debris.

Alan Sorkey


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