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Weber IDA 48 running correctly ????????
Hello All,
I would like to find out how many of you guys have webers that are running correctly. What I mean by this is that your plugs are tanish brown, good idle with a mixture of 13.5 - 15.5, good transition, good top end power. I am beginning to feel that I am asking for too much from these webers. I have read mojority of the books and bought tons of jets. I have tried 37 chokes 40 chokes, 42 chokes. I have read Eljaro posting but it seems that even the modified F7 tube which is similar is not a F14 tube. I would like to just find out if I am in the same situation as everyone else with these Webers. |
Nope, mine are running great - beyond any and all expectations.
Pretty much followed Eljaros suggestions, installed an Innovate WBo2 Gauge and ended up with my own Tune. My setup:68 Shelby, 428, TKO 5Speed, 3.00 gears, 40mm Venturis, 3rd progression hole. |
68gt500,
What are you using for a e-tube? |
Quote:
I did try out the F16s (I could not get any F14s) in the very beginning, with the 40mm venturis before doing the 3rd transition mod but didnīt get good results, so I went back to the F7s. But as I said, it was the beginning of the learning curve - I should give the F16s another try in the spring. My problems - and the solution I found were: Driveability problems (huge flat spots): were eliminated with the 3rd progression hole. Deceleration popping: Eliminated by synchronising the carbs and opening the Idle screws to 3/4 to 1 turn. Mileage: Improved most by reducing the idle jet (65) and idle holder (110) Top End: Vastly improved by the 40mm venturis and leaning the main |
I will increase my idle jet to 65 and adjust my holders from 135 to 120 then to 110 and soforth.
I have determined that 135 holder is too lean and the 95 holder is too rich. I will monitor this from idle to 3000. Then I will begin to use the F11 E tube with a 170 main and 210 corrector. I will monitor this range from 3000 - 6000 Anything running leaning from 3000 - 4000 I will increase the main jet Anything running runnning lean from 4000 -up I will decrease the air corrector I have read that E-Tubes should not be changed unless tuning on a Dyno. It stated that there is very little change when changing the tubes. If I need more fuel in the midrange I will then move from a F11 Tube to a F16. If more fuel is needed for progression /normal driving then I will then use a F7 tube. It seems like the F7 tube is the richest of all in ralation to the F11 and F16. Does this sound correct? |
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