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Webers with thermostat???
This is directed to those of you with 289/302 with 48 IDA's using a manifold with the dual water outlets (forward facing), ie without the thermostat housing integral in the manifold.
The bypass hose is eliminated when this type manifold is used, there is no bypass. Is it intended to be run exclusively without a thermostat? I have tried putting a smaller thermostat with a couple of holes drilled inside the hose but have blown a hole in the new upper hose once and blew the hose off the connecting tube another time. Are those of you that have this type manifold running without a thermostat? Are you using some sort of in-line restrictor? I want to keep heat in the motor but am reluctant to operate without a thermostat . What are your experiences? What temps are you able to maintain? Operating temps dropped about 5-10 degrees with the Webers. I have seen some bushing type resrictors that fit into the radiator necks, anyone using something like that? |
The reason you're blowing hoses is because the water pump continues to spin when the thermostat is closed. The bypass hose is there to prevent that. If you install a thermostat, you must have a bypass hose to relieve the pressure behind the thermostat.
You can install a remote thermostat housing like this one: http://www.ipsco.org/Pantera%20Parts...ethhousing.htm |
There is a in-the-hose thermostat available. I have one installed in my weber system. Sorry don't have picture but it fits in the hose and can be held in place with a single hoseclamp.
Scott S |
I think that may be a version that was for the early Ford tractors/SV V8's, have seen pics posted before.
Jac Mac |
1 Attachment(s)
Thermostat- B2NN -8575 -A
Rick you must utilise a by-pass and take the by-pass from as close to the T/Stat as possible in order for it to function correctly. |
I have only been able to find this type in 160 degree, is it available in 180 or 190?
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T/Stat
Rick,
Given that this type of thermostat was meant for low pressure ( or even no pressure! ) cooling systems its unlikely that they would be available in higher temp range. In your case I think it would pay to make or have made a specific thermostat/ by-pass housing that can be fitted in the top hose/s. You might be able to do it by bolting two themostat housings back to back. Some SBC have a sender unit fitting cast integral that could serve as the by-pass if the t/stat bulb can be accomodated without causing too much restriction. Jac Mac |
Has any one tried placing a freeze plug in the upper radiator hose, with a 5/8" hole in the middle to act as a restrictor? Summit sells water restrictor washers that have 5/8", 3/4" and 1" holes.
It may take a little longer for the engine to warm up and then there is the question of possible over heating in traffic vs cruising down the highway. A thermostat will open and close to regulate temperature vs a restrictor providing a constant flow. |
The freeze plug idea was suggested locally. With the fuel log in place one of the small 5/8 hose nipples on the water pump (early aluminum pump) has to be removed for it (the log) to fit. After a lot of deliberation and suggestions by Jac Mac (Thank you), I may try to put a connection between the surge tank and a fitting installed between the inline thermostat and the intake manifold. I belive this will achieve the bypass to allow for even temprature. OR just live without any thermostat entirely.
UPDATE:6/15/08...I initially eliminated the thermostat and ran without one, I had difficulty in getting the temp above 150 degrees except in slow traffic. Next I intalled a thermostat from some import car (180 degree) with 2 holes drilled in the perimeter. While under full throttle in 2nd gear the water pressure buildup, blew a hole in the upper hose, it too was slow to build temprature. Next I installed a thermostat like the one pictured above but with (4) 3/16 dia holes drilled in the outer face. Wouldn't get past an indicated 120 degrees while at road speed in 75 degree weather. I doubt that a blanking sleeve with a 5/8" diameter hole would yield any better results. I think I will focus on creating a legitamate bypass system. |
Rick , you have to remember that the 289's w/Webers were all out competition cars, run hard, put up wet, then torn down and rebuilt for the next race. I so wanted my engine to mimic the 289 comp cars. After researching cooling/ heating issues, for a street driven car, I opted for the typical thermostat/intake before I installed my Webers. As cool as they look the double hose setup isn't optimal for any type of real functioning thermostat for a street driven car because at best engine temp will never reach 180* aprox, unless you are running full out for long periods of time. You can set up various jury-rig solutions, but that is what you end up with when stuck in the middle of Nowhweresville a hundred miles from home and the setup blows out or quits on you.
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1 Attachment(s)
Found this inline thermostat housing by Meziere Enterprizes WN0072
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Rick,
Here are the photos of what I made for my car. I have a drawing that you could give to any machine shop. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...37F_Small_.JPG http://www,clubcobra.com/photopost/d...038F_Small.JPG |
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If a machine shop can do it for less than $56.00 plus $15 shipping.
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