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Coolant Recovery
I need a larger coolant recovery tank; my 32 oz. Moroso is over flowing if I start with the cooling system full. To avoid over flowing, I start with the coolant down about an inch and a half. On an 85 degree day, I am running very hot, 195 on the street and 205 at the track. Keeping all the coolant in without guess work is desirable. I can fab a mount for a second round tank but was looking for an easier solution.
Any suggestions for a larger tank? Jim |
I use a plastic tank with bracket from a 1965 Mustang,cold about a third full and hot just above half.Works great.
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Jim
A one quart bottle will never be enough----But having said that, is your system plumbed correctly??? correct type rad neck and cap? high enough pressure rating? Do you run inderdrive pulleys? Jerry |
If I am understanding you correctly. The coolant tank shouldn't be filled to the top when cold to allow for expansion.
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Quote:
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Recovery tank is empty at start.
Rad cap is 16 pounds. Cap sits at highest point of the system; I use an filler adapter that bolts on the intake manifold. Pulleys are standard size. Thermostat has 1/8 inch hole in it to vent air during filling. The thermostat is 165; temp is 170 if outside air is below 70. The radiator is marginal; it the one EM used before changing to aluminum ( I started the build long ago ). I have a new aluminum one ordered from EM. Scott and Mark have had good success with this alum rad. Thanks, Jim |
Jim
Is the overflow tank vented to atmosphere? Does the hose to the rad attach at the bottom or have a tube to the bottom? The tanks for a recove4ry system and a race catch can are two different applications Jerry |
The tank is set up with a hose barb on the bottom; that is connected to the hose from the overflow fitting at the rad cap. The top of the tank has a fitting that is vented to the atmosphere so the thing works like a normal OE recovery system; it just is short on capacity. I am guessing I need 64 ounces or more capacity.
Jim |
The coolant recovery system should serve two purposes. Initially, it will help to remove any air from the system, if there is sufficient coolant in the tank after the engine is hot and the correct cap is installed (one that will open upon cooling to "suck" the coolant from the tank. If during this process, the tank empties, air will be sucked back into the system. Without adding coolant to the recovery tank, it may never bleed all the air out.
Secondly, it serves as a receptacle for the hot fluid that expands as heated. A one quart tank should be enough to accept the expansion volume. I have a diesel truck with more than six gallons of coolant and the expansion is not much, if any more than one quart. I believe that you must have excess air in the system, or some leak that allows air into the pressurized system (Hope not). One thing to try is one of the auto parts store recovery tanks $10 or so that has a fill cap. Bring the engine to temp & as it cools down keep some coolant in the tank for several cycles, should "bleed" the air out once & for all. If, of course, the radiator isn't sufficient, a gallon tank will not be enough. |
sounds like a dark side problem!
But if you are pushing out more then 32oz. I think you are have bigger problems:confused: or you are over filling it%/
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Jim,
If I understand you correctly, your filler adaptor on the intake has the cap on it with a line to the overflow tank? If this is the case, your problem is the cap location. The cap should be at the highest point in the system but on the low pressure side. At the highest point in my system I have a surge tank with a radiator cap on it. I have a -10 plumbing the bottom of the surge tank to the suction side of the water pump. A -06 line is plumbed from the upper corner of the low pressure side of the radiator to the side of the surge tank. The surge tank is approximately 1qt capacity and when cold it is 1/2 water and 1/2 air space. Plumbed this way the surge tank will have a constant, low velocity flow that will separate any air in the system and expel it should system pressure exceed the cap rating. My system maintains a constant level and doesn't require an overflow tank. The problem with a cap on the high pressure side of the system, such as above the thermostat housing or in the upper hose, is that water pump pressure will push coolant past the cap regardless of system pressure or coolant level. This could have serious consequences on the track and should be corrected. Scott |
Jim
I agree with what Scott has said----I just reread your post and picked up that the cap is 16#---when you use a cap right on the manifold like your doing you will need probably a 30# als Nascar land---The differential pressure system that Scott is describing is the one of the best ways of doing it---gets air out of the system and continually eliminates steam vapors that can get trapped in the higher pockets of your system Jerry |
Thanks for the suggestions. I do have a 9 quart system; the 454 is a fat block with lots of water.
I can't do Scott's setup because of height restriction and a different water pump setup. I am thinking of a remote Canton expansion tank. If I plumb a line from my water neck adapter on top of my intake to the input fitting on the expansion tank and a line from the bottom of the tank to a port on the water pump, will I accomplish the same effect? What cap pressure should I use on the remote tank? Thanks, Jim |
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