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All cars grind going into reverse, what about the forward gears? To prevent grinding going into reversre the solution is simple, shift into third first then reverse and it will never grind. so first push in clutch, shift to third, then while still holding the clutch in shift to reverse.
Are you saying it shifts fine in the forward gears when hot and cold and the only perceived problem in reverse? |
Go to a Throw-Out Bearing and be done with it. Life is much more simple that way.
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reverse only
Yes it's only in reverse. I've tried the whole 3rd to reverse and 5th to reverse with no luck. Why when hot only???? Is it the tko 500 normal??
thanks for your help, tom |
You need more travel on the fork. Measure how much you are getting total... it will take 2 people.
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Grinding into reverse is generally one problem and one problem only...incomplete clutch disengagement. The input shaft is still slightly spinning. Doesn't matter what transmission at all. The transmission is probably fine. Reverse is not syncro'd and all forward gears are. That's why the grinding doesn't occur in any forward gear. When you shift into first, third, whatever... you are stopping that rotation, then it will go into reverse just fine. The problem is still there, a lack of complete disengagement of the clutch.
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The pilot bearing to input shaft nose is either too tight or the bell housing alignment to crank centerline is off---the syncros stop the trans shaft from spinning for forward gears but reverse doesn't have that---these new modern trans are much freer turning, especially when warm and the trans imput shaft is turning from induced friction from the pilot bearing----the older style bushings didn't do this very often but the new very tight fitting roller bearings do.
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Syncro's don't stop a shaft from spinning, just the opposite. They start the selected gear spinning at a similar speed to make the engagement smooth. Thus the name syncronizer...;)
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IF-----you are sittig still, disengage clutch---as if to put the car into a gear-----sycronizing the speed of the gear would STOP it
And also in a sycronized transmission----all the gears are turning with the IMPUT SHAFT, it is the out put or mainshaft that the gears then drive Loosen and lube the pilot bearing, correct the alignment and this problem will go away---- If anyone wants to check out my statement----simply remove the pressure plate from the car and try putting it in reverse (with a warm trans) |
another thing that will cause this reverse only malfunction is a slightly bent clutch disc that is caused by beer drinking friends helping you install the trans
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Alignment theoretically could be a problem...but I have done many clutch repairs and have never seen that problem with a quality aftermarket transmission or bellhousing such as you have...the manufacturing quality is too good, so it's not likely.
The reason heat is affecting things is that when cold, the master and slave will hold better pressure. When you begin to introduce some heat, the rubber/neoprene softens and your hydraulic pressure will weaken and it will still work BUT not give the same movement to disengage your clutch. If everything works cold, there is no problem with the transmission, pilot bearing, bell housing alignment, brackets, etc. It is internal hydraulics, period. Don't go down the wrong bunny trail. For what it's worth, my car had a no good, leaky, stock Mazda slave cylinder fail at 600 miles. I replaced it with the same stock Mazda slave, and I use DOT 5 silicone fluid, and 2 years later it's still working properly. Plus I live in Fl. where there is overall higher ambient heat to boot! Works for me! Good Luck to you. |
Jim,
Sorry buddy but I just got to LOL! I have gone through the exact issue and have changed my throw out bearing 3 times. And clutch set up once! Give me a call some time. I am "pretty sure" we solved the problem. We have spent A LOT of time on this issue. More then anything else. I "think I solved it" by putting in a new Wilwood 1in master cyl., switching to Mike Forte's slave cyl and adjusting the clutch pedal to make sure I'm getting a full throw on the Master cyl. I have the stock alum. bell housing btw. The one that Mike Forte's sells for the 351W. The fork is from Forte also. Mine ALSO got worse as the engine heated up. I switched to Wilwood Hi Temp fluid. (Summit Racing). Car worked fine the last half of the year with all these changes. I'll let you drive my car and see if the issues are the same. You are right down the street! Later, SID |
Jimbo
Did you ever figure out you issues with the hydraulic clutch system? |
I'm not sure if Jim solved his issue or not. I had George at Nortown Automotive put in a hydraulic throwout bearing. Should have done this the first time. Didn't put a lit of miles on it but will this season. Will provide feedback.
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Well...
It's been good for the last year and a half, but at the end of last fall - I had a bit of an issue again, just before I put it away for the winter. The fluid is not burned, it looks brand new. I am going to try it out this spring and see how it goes. Everythings is wrapped, I have a heat shield, even put LizardSkin on the bottom of it for added heat resistance. I will check the slave again, may have to take the 6 hour drive to a dealer if I have trouble this spring. I will take it out for a spin in April and get it good and hot and see how it goes. Crossing my fingers... Are you having issues 0o7?
I did not do the hydraulic throwout. |
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