Epoxy flooring
 

I'm looking for ideas on which do-it-yourself epoxy flooring to use. I read Arcenio's post back in August 2007. His post stated an industrial epoxy, but he did not name the kit/product/mfg. Just wondering if people would use the same or a newed product?

I can tell you what I used. I used the rustoleum epoxy. If I had to do it over again I would go with something better like the U coat it. The rustoleum is OK and looks good but it does not last like the good stuff. I would also recommend the clear coat on whatever product you buy. The better stuff comes at a cost thought, 3 or 4 times as much as the Rustoleum.

Which ever product is selected, proper floor prep is essential for adherence to the cement. Might also want to check for moisture content in the floor. One way is to tape on four sides a piece of plastic and leave/observe for a day. If there is moisture trapped inside the loose plastic, floor covering results could either be marginal or not long lasting.

A commercial vendor used this approach on my floor and recommended not applying the floor material.

This is 100% correct, preparation is the key and in this game, quality materials=better floors. The concrete MUST be completely void of any contaminants and it takes some work to get to that perfect level or preparation (pressure washing is only the beginning.) It will likely include some grinding and possibly acid etching unless the floor is brand new. I would suggest you go to www.garagejournal.com and like this forum, there are tons of threads on materials and methods. I spent 6 months reading and researching and decided that if I could build a Cobra, I could do my floor and garage first. I had bare concrete 4 years old that had standard wear, oil and tire stains and overspray. Using processes from the garagejournal forum, I prepped the floor incessantly for 2 weeks and then used Devoe Coatings 224HS for the base, chips from colorchips.com, and then two coats of 379UVA topcoat. I finished the floor last fall and can tell you that I have HAMMERED the surface while rebuilding this car. Dropped parts and jackstands, oil, metal shavings, etc and the floor is like brand new, and no hot tire lift. Lots of work, but I highly recommend you researching before you do anything. And if you want it to perform well, the $70 Home Depot solution is not the answer. Devoe products are 70% solids epoxy and aircraft hangar quality. I have $500 in materials and prep invested in the floor (but lots of sweat) and the best estimate I could get was $3000 from a contractor. The $2500 savings went for the Snap-On box. :3DSMILE:

Bare floor as the cabinet work started:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3093/...2830b50b_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3295/...05c96a9a_o.jpg

Cabinets in and painted:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/...cc6dc5c2_o.jpg

Floor with beige base, tan/brown/black chips and double urethane clear-coated:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3139/...8e658c9d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3204/...87c5e1ed_b.jpg

Nintey days ago when the REAL work started:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3483/...889972ea_o.jpg

Check over here these guys have a forum section on it:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php?

Hey Mariachi, That is the same exact floor color I put in my garage.
I couldn't be happier with it.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/DSC00235.JPG

Hey Nanderson, why don't you email me and I'll give you the info I have.
soldthem2@aol.com :D

As you know, when its done, its a serious work of art. I get as many compliments on my garage as I do on the car. I would highly recommend anyone considering covering their garage floor to look into the Devoe Coatings 224HS product. PM or email me if you wish to discuss.

Jim

Elmariachi Your garage looks awesome my friend.Thanks for the detailed info on coating the floor.i'm going to go that route.
:)

Thanks. Go here http://www.devoecoatings.com/Specifications.do

and get the product sheets for 224HS and 379UVA in the pulldown box. Then go to garagejournal.com and sign up and do seaches for both. Be sure and read all the relevant threads paying special attention to floor prep and the rest will fall into place. Buzz me if you have questions.

I epoxy coated my floor 13 years ago with industrial epoxy. I didn't use the color chips but instead went with a blue color similar to that blue masking tape. Looks great and cleans up nice and takes a beating without lifting. I would recomend the color chips to help with the nonslip surface. Dust from woodworking and epoxy floor can be real slick. Water and epoxy floor can be real slick. Although no one has slipped and fallen it is a real potential. The other thing is when parking a car that has been driven in the rain. The water drips off the car but soesn't soak into the floor so it puddles. After a few trips out and back the puddles get bigger and bigger to where they will migrate across the floor. Yes I would do it over again, I am just sharing some negatives. I believe it is called Polyamide 2 part Epoxy, the same stuff used to paint the inside of a swimming pool. I recomend the best respirator you can find and have some good ventilation because this stuff can kill you. Also the guys that do this for a living will wear golf shoes with metal spikes to walk on an uncured floor. That way their feet don't stick to the floor. Good luck!

John

I used U-Coatit in my old garage. Very easy to apply, looked great, cleaned easily and was very durable. I would use it again without reservation.

Yep, many of these products, including the 224HS can be tinted to any color you want. That allowed me to match the floor, chips, walls and cabinets all into a complete package.

I wound up using a 1/2" nap 20" wide industrial roller to apply mine 9and it was a gooey PITA) but the long nap gave it a bit of a texture, which does help considerably with the traction issue. Even when wet, its tough to slip on mine. (But Goo Gone will sure make you bust your a$$ though.) When I applied the epoxy base, it was the consistency of syrup and I had to pour it onto the floor, spread with a squeegee and then smooth and cover with the roller. I would NOT recommend a 1/2" nap roller again, 3/8" wool is ideal. You can also buy sand to mix in for traction control, but based on how much I roll around on the floor, I didn't want to feel the the grit. As John said, you will need spike shoes to walk on the epoxy as you spread it, especially if you use flakes. I made some from an old pair of tennis shoes with drywall screws screwed through the soles and on through some 1"x4" I cut the length of the shoes. Worked well enough and allowed me to walk across the material to hit any spots I missed as well as to spread the flakes. I used a handheld lawn fertilizer spreader to spread them, worked like a charm.

Doing it right involves some planning and prep, and having a helper or two is a good idea as well.

A buddy of mine had a real slippery floor that was done professionally (with flakes and a clear coat). After his toddler and wife took diggers on the floor it was time for a change. The solution we came up with was spread some playground sand on the surface and put another clear coat down. It was enough traction and has weathered well. Some of the sand has come up but the "pot-mark" left behind still provides traction. This is not a good solution if you want a glassy shine it is more of a flat finish.

I bought mine from Sherwin Williams Paint store. The product is made by a "Tile Clad. " It's been down about ten years, and still looks like new despitedropping my transmission on it twice, unnoticed brake fluid spills that sat for days, etc. I'd never have a garage without it.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...orshine003.jpg

Thank you all for your responses to my inquiry. The pics of the floors in this thread look great!