Gunner If you don't want to use the cooler in the cold weather, change the
oil filter housing and cap the lines. I don't think there ar alot of SCJ housing around but the standard ones will work fine with a fram ph 400 filter. 4 bolts, 1 gasket and filter, about 10 minute swap. Cap off the lines and put the adaptor in the tool box. Rick L. Ps I use this in the beginning before going to the setup I now have.
Oil temp is important but You might be getting a little crazy with. If your sensor is in the
oil pan,it may not be geeting the correct reading. There is a ton of air blowing around in there because of the crank. This is going to remove some of the heat in the oil too. Buy a good infrared temp gun and see what you have at other locations. Even racing the temp on my gauge hits about 170. Motor is running at 180-185f coolant. My gauge sensor is in the oil pan, canton. I have about 13-14 quarts of oil between pan, lines, cooler, 3 quart accusump. I don't know if the accusump emptys out all the oil when racing. It's hot when I check it. I also run 75-85 psi in the motor. You should only be needing the 60+ when runniing and 30 at idle for a safe setup. IMO. Gunner I run a 15-40W Rottella in the car a bottle of lucas oil suppliment and bottle of EOS. I use the accusump to pre lube the motor before startup, get about 30 psi. Start the motor and let it run at 1,100 rpms for about 2 minutes until the oil gauge is not pinned. I get about 130 psi on start up with 100# spring. It takes about 3-4 minutes to get all numbers in the right area before running the car. oil pressure idle is 30-35 and goes to 80+ at 2,000 rpms. coolant in the 175-180 area and steady. I have run this block with 2 different bottom end kits, 452 one for 7 years and now the 482 for 3 years+. I wanted more torque
This is an aluminium block also which does need to be treated a little different than Iron block, again IMO. Who's oil are you using?? The other thing is going to a 10W-30. 5W-30 is like water and may be too thin to run in your block. This depends on the clearances of the rod and crank bearings and the lifter bores. Does your motor have limiters for the rocker shafts? Also alot of oil may be going into the heads to cool the valve springs. Anyway more info to think about. You can change the adapter real easy like I said in maybe 1/2 hour taking your time and basic tools, just need an tray to catch the oil.
Rick L.