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Jim-
Adel clamps, as you've pictured, would require a thru bolt or stud to mount them too.
As Fletcher mentioned, sticky back pads can be used but they would not stick to the rough surfaced backside of fiberglass as is found "under the lip"
of the engine compartment area. These pads can be pre-installed using a product called liquid nails, available at most hardware stores. After the adhesive has set up, then you can very loosely install the tie wraps thru the loops of the sticky pads, run all of your wires, verify that your wiring is correct and complete, clip the ties, install the loom over your new wires, and then re-install fresh ties and carefully tighten them up. This should provide a tidy and long lasting install.
As far as the crimp is concerned. Most all of the connector manufacturers suggest a crimped only connection as a mechanical crimp does not alter the hardness or as annealled state of the copper conductor. Soldering will tend to harden the copper right at the connection and this spot will be the point of failure if vibration or movement occurs at the joint. If you feel that you must solder, and many auto electrictions feel that way, be sure to use high quality heat shrink tubing over the joint, preferably dual wall, as this will help to provide some strain relief.
As to which crimper to use. Manufacturers suggest the use of a "pinch type" of crimper for insulated connectors and a "pierce type" for uninsulated connectors.
I hope that this helps you out some.
Don
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