With my engine getting ready to assemble, I found this site about a lubrication guide.
I hope that Keith and/or Barry, can log on and give some advise to break in my solid mechanical roller cam & roller lifters....... Is there a difference on what type of cam and lifter & why ?
Should I be using a break in
oil and other products, on the engine dyno ?
What's the difference ?
What weight ? (start with a thin viscosity, then change the
oil to a thicker viscosity for the high rpm run) ?
Although my cam is not a flat tappet, but a solid roller, should a
zinc and phosphorus product be used anyway ? (especially on the break in)
The site below, is by Joe Gibbs. I'm not saying to use his products, just passing on the information, regardless of what company's site or selling product.
SITE INFO-
Anti-wear additives (
Zinc and Moly) to create a sacrificial additive coating that prevents metal to metal contact in your engine.
Use a System of Compatible Products to Avoid Additive Clash.
Street
oil vs. racing oil.
Since not all
synthetic oils mix well with other
synthetic oils, it is very important that you don't go
directly from one brand of
synthetic oil to another brand synthetic oil without flushing the system
in between with a petroleum based oil.
While the reduction of
zinc, phosphorus and sulfur in today’s motor oils is a significant change, there is more to the story. Specifically, the detergent additives used in modern oils have also changed. Here are some key facts about zinc and detergents and how they work.
ect.......
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...tionguide.html