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Pull Clutch Slave Cylinder chg out
I've heard of many issues with the clutch slave cylinders on our Cobras, e.g., leaking, wearing out prematurely, breaking. My car only has a few hundred miles on it and already the slave cylinder has drops of brake fluid. One guy I talked to is giving up and going to a cable setup. I've read all the past threads and mind is misaligned also (note the picts of the original slave). Since my problems are starting early with a push type clutch slave cylinder, I changed to a Wilwood "pull" type. I see advantages to this....The good thing about the Wilwood, it has two swivel/pivot bearings, one on each end for a 360 deg of movement, and if mounted correctly, the slave cylinder is always in a straight line, therefore, no side pressure on the cylinder walls. Key benefit.... because its pulling, vs. pushing, it’s easy to keep itself in a straight line (like pulling a rope vs pushing one). I designed a bracket to attach to the frame. Yes, I'm aware of the engine movement/rotation relative to the frame, but it's a very small amount and the Wilwood is designed to handle it with the two pivot points. I'm good to go with the stud through the clutch arm hole relative to free motion. I also "rounded" out the far side of the clutch arm hole where the half-round bushing pivots with a round/ball type grinding wheel via my air grinder... then applied a small amount of wheel bearing grease. I then installed a few fittings and a 7" ss braided hose to connect to the steel line and bleed the master/slave with new brake fluid. While I was in the area, I also install heat shields to my brake and clutch lines that were close to the headers.
Should be good to go now... Mark
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