Quote:
Originally Posted by YerDugliness
You've hit the combo right on the head....although I had thought about a 347 stroker, I've decided to go with the 331 instead. Right now I'm planning on using AFR heads, not quite sure about 165's vs 185's yet, but that is the route planned--I had considered the 185's, but want to maintain good flow velocity in the intake runners and with only 331 CID, I think the 165's would be better. While I'm running a Performer intake with an Edelbrock carb right now, plans also include switching to a Performer Air Gap/Holley combo (probably in the 600 CFM range, most likely a double pumper with a manual choke). The car already has a lot of Mallory components (electric fuel pump, Unilite distributor/coil) and it spins quite nicely already.
In the interest of longevity I had pretty much decided to go with a forged crank/con rod set.
Probably an aluminum flywheel, if that makes any difference...I don't mind giving it a few RPMs to get it going from a standing start, sure do like how quickly a well-built small block will rev with an aluminum flywheel.
SOME DAY I really want to build a Clevor, but for now I'm going with Windsor heads so I don't have to change out the sidepipes, etc....not to mention the issues getting custom pistons/head work for the "combo". Plenty of time for playing with the Clevor idea later, right now I just want to bump up the acceleration a bit and I'm sure a Windsor will work just fine.
Intended use is probably 95% street use, a decent part of which will be highway use....occasional 1/4 mile blasts just for fun.
Right now I plan on using the well-seasoned factory block that is in the car already, but I am well aware of the problems with splitting 5.0 blocks with excess horsepower.
I will probably have one of the engine builders who posts regularly on the forum build the long block for me and will rely on the builder for the cam choice.
Ask away, folks....I'm open to all suggestions at this point!!
Cheers from Dugly  |
I wouldn't spend the extra money on a forged crankshaft. It's very unnecessary for 400 flywheel horsepower. Definitely go with forged rods, I-beams are perfectly fine. I do some 7.50 1/8th mile class drag race engines and use the Scat cast crankshafts with Scat forged I-beam rods. It's a good combination.
I would also go with the AFR 165cc heads and match it to a nice hydraulic roller cam. Top it off with an RPM Air Gap intake and you'll have your 400hp pretty easily.
At 400hp, I would install ARP main studs in the block. No need for a main girdle at that power level.
An aluminum flywheel will keep some weight off the back of the crankshaft, but IMO it will also decrease the life of your clutch. I've had both steel and aluminum flywheels in the same car (my own Cobra) and could tell that I had to slip the clutch a little more to get rolling with the light flywheel.
If you're interested in a long block, I would appreciate the opportunity to quote this for you. I do more SBF's than anything else (street and race both) and can talk at length with you about options.