Jamie, looks like you need shims under the pivot bracket rear bolts.
Keep in mind, shims under the back bolts will reduce the front dimension.
However, even if you shim the pivot brackets to give no toe at all is no guarantee that will translate out to the wheel when you fit the lower wishbone.
The reason for this is the accuracy of how the lower wishbones were shortened (if they were) or the accuracy of the original wishbones.
I found my shortened wishbones were not as accurate as I'd like. In fact, testing some unaltered original wishbones also indicated them to be not accurate. Testing involved running shafts thru both ends of the wishbone and measuring if they were parallel.
So that means even if you shimmed your inner pivot brackets to give zero toe you may not get that after fitting the lower wishbone. You would then have to start the shimming process all over again just to get the alignment correct.
You could assemble the whole diff out of the car and play with the shims until you get zero toe on the outboard end but then the diff may be slightly out of square in the chassis and that stuffs up all your work.
The best way to handle this is to shim your inner brackets parallel and have the toe adjustable at the outboard end of the wishbone.
If you contact Scotty at venom and arrange to send him your wishbones. He has the jigs etc. to make the modification.
http://www.venomcobras.com/
If you have trouble following the above I can send you an email with a phone number and we can chat.