Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry_R
Don't have the numbers in front of me - but the addition of the 14x3 air cleaner always cost a bit of power - maybe 10ish IIRC. The filter lid reduced that by a tiny bit. Once thing is certain - the lid did NOT cost the HP that was referenced when used in 600-750+ HP applications.
I don't hold much stock in published cfm ratings. In order to be an accurate measurement, a cfm rating much have a defined degree of pressure drop. Without a defined amount of restriction you cannot determine flow because you will not know whether you've reached a limit of any degree. Carbs are/were rated a 1.5 drop value - meaning the were a restriction on airflow at that cfm value. Every single EMC entry I have had has picked up power with a larger carb no matter what size the engine.
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They rate their filters at a negative 1.5" water column too... K&N actually has some good tech data on their site, nice linear charts of each filter's pressure drops (at least the published ones).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Parker
Until you have removed the choke tower and radiused all the air flow entries or opted for an HP main body for the carb(s) changing the air filter housing is a mute point.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
Not true Dave. Here's how you do it; offset the the center posts. Then build a flat pan with flanges at the throats to clear the adjusters:]
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Dunno Chas, think I'll still head down this path until it fizzles. Then, maybe a twin filter setup. That's pretty trick how you set that up though...
Dave