[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by vector1

another note, if the magnets (if multiple) in the signal wheel are not oriented correctly or all in the same +/- pole orientation, it can confuse the ecu by a mixed signal i believe.

I considered using a flying magnet and sensor set up. But they're pretty expensive. And I'd have to modify or replace my balancer to get the proper spacing.

I had a 5" 36-1 tooth trigger wheel made for me. Oddly enough, there does not appear to be an off the shelf trigger wheel for this set up. With so many hobbyists and racers using EFI, that surprised me. Fortunatly, finding some one who could make me one wasn't difficult. I don't remember exactly, but the price to my door step was about $20.

Also, there's no real off the shelf bracket for the hall sensor. I had to make that myself.

Originally Posted by vector1

i was going to add, are you using batch injection or sequential or does it apply to your system?

I'm using batch fired right now. That's what I'v been using for the last 7 years, and it works just fine. Sequential injection is a bit more difficult to install and program. And the only real advantage is a smoother idle with less emisssions. Once you get much above idle, there's no advantage. And some systems will then convert to batch fired, because there just isn't enough time to do it sequential.

CDI's do the same thing. You'll get multiple sparks up to about 2500-3000 rpms' and then it's down to 1 spark just like stock.

The other advantage to full sequential is the ability to use COP ignition. I chose to use wasted spark for a few reasons.

Originally Posted by Luce

And no, of course you never see a pull up resistor on a production car. If it's needed, it's located inside the ECU.

The resister can be anywhere in the circuit. I put it at the pigtail because it was easy. If I was 100% sure it would work, I would probably have put it behind the dash. There is no way I am going anywhere near the ECU main board with a hot iron. That's a recipe for trouble right there.

Like Dirty Harry said, "A man's got to know his limitations".

Originally Posted by Tony Ripepi

Hooo Raaaaaah,

Success, I am interested in how the self tuning aspects of the MS work as you go through time and then giving you the performance you are loking for under track conditions.

Congrats on your persisitance,

TR

I drove it up and down the street today - drove my neighbors nuts I bet. It's just drive and push the button - it was that easy. The computer isn't very bright. So it will sometimes put ridiculous numbers in a cell. So you have to pay attention and know what's happening. You have to drive and tune in a very particular manner to get the results you're after. You can't just drive it around town and expect it do the tuning with no input from you. You need to understand what you're doing and why. It's not rocket science. But it's not as easy as the ads make you think it is.

But just driving around the neighborhood it seems to be driving pretty good. There's a slight bog down low that I have to work on. But it feels pretty smooth.

Tomorrow I'm going to try driving it up and down the highway and do some data logging and tune from there.

It's pretty darned close now. My next step is add the wasted spark ignition system.