wicked fast BC Unless you are looking to remove any extra weight from the car or building a 500 inch motor with 11.0 compression, a oem starter will work just fine. You buy a mini and you have to do a couple of things
Get the air gap between teeth about .035-.050" clearance, any more or less and you will get starter noise or chew teeth on both starter and flywheel. What bell housing are you running and does it have a block plate saver?? if yes you may have to remove this part of the saver to get FULL contact range of the starter toi the flywheel. Alot of guys have learned to the hard way. Have seen broken bendix drives on mini with wrong setups. Most motors where assemblied without block protectors and this .120-.180" removes the extra distance that a mini starter extends. Only about 50% of the teeths have contact. Over timing stripping on both parts. If you are running a street motor with mild compression and camshaft, stay with what works. If you have a hot soak problem with the starter, then try shielding to reflect the heat or a small fan to cool the starter down. I tell people to crack the hoods and this gives the heat a way out of the engine compartment. Choice is yours. Your question is I ran a oem starter for 1 year and hot soaks made me switch to a tilton mini Ran this for another year until I broke the bendix drive and found that the problem was no enough contact. Repaired the problem and ran the same starter for 13 years. I went to a 482 motor and got a new starter. The tilton still works fine. Rick L. Ps some companies have a lifetime warrantity on their starters.
Others have 1 year only.
Prices are all over the place too, shop hard and save some money.
