Pete Monroe The only check I would do before pulling the motor is checking the crankshaft end play. It should be under.010". Anything more, you are pulling the motor. I would also check the length of the trans mission input shaft and the bellhousing depth. GM input shafts are some times a little long for ford motors with Lakewood bell housings.
Auto mags on
oil filters are good but don't work on copper or bronze partials.
Pull the motor and take your time about pulling motor apart. Like to see what distributor gear and camshaft look like. Check endplay on camshaft before removal. Will get spec for this. I beleive that it is .005" without distributor in block. Anything before the
oil filter is junk. You will never get all the small partials out of the SS lines. I don't see how scrappers or gidles could have caused this failure. once you locate the damage area we will have a better idea of the failure. Either way a replacement of all the bearings, a good cleaning of all the
oil passages are needed. New bolts in the rods, bearings and rings. Good look at the camshaft and lifters, and grooves and replace all. As far as the accusump, I mounted mine under the car on the r/s outter frame rail. It has electric soleniod to open and close. But small sign on dash about filling it before turning off motor. Something new about accusump, they now have a varying valve to control refills and not hurt the motor for oil. shields will be needed to protect the front and side of the tank from road debrie. MInes going on 7 years and still works great. 3/16" aluminum shields work great and protect. I am thinking the gear on the distributor is gone. Alot of cleaning wuill be needed. When done, there is on most blocks an oil gallery around the distributor/ camshaft area for oiling instead of splash setup. Need a .010-.15" hole to spary oil at this location. Good luck with repairs.Rick L.