Not Ranked
The 140 setting appears to be just to keep things in place while you're assembling the hub to the car and then the 225 for the final value once everything is in place.
Had a bearing go out in mine a couple of years ago and noted a couple of things.
You're going to need the wheels on the ground to break the nut loose and to do the final tightening.
You're going to need a breaker bar extension to get enough leverage for the final setting. When I took mine apart I thought I'd broken the socket when the nut finally loosened. A loud "crack" when it came loose.
Don't know if I should have but I used anti seize when I put it back together. Seemed to make the re-torquing easier.
DON'T LOOSE THE SPACER BEHIND BEARING. It would be a major pain to try to figure out the float space again.
DonC
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