[RICK LAKE]

Mongoose 930. For the stripped hole, clean out the threads and use a stud until the season is over. Tighten stud in hole to bottom. If you have a little PB welding puddy, add this to the hole. Not sure which heads you have, aluminum or iron. They have kits for both. Works well when harden. Options for permanant fix in winter, drill and tap to metric size bolt, timesert the hole which is a little over kill but last forevery and can do repeated top motor repairs with no problems of retorqueing. Last Helicoil, cheaper and quicker to do with a low failure rate. The last repair way doesn't like multi torque and retorqueing done. Just my 2 cents and 30+ years of using different things to repair stripped holes. My Shelby heads came with helicoils and over time they loosen. I raced with this and broke a rocker shaft. The helicoils came out on the ARP stud. 11 years have gone by since using timeserts in the heads and no problem with loosing torque specs. This is for an aluminum head. good luck with your repair.
For manifolds, Most don't have the hole for the heater pipe tapped any more with a valve to supply flow to the heater core and back to the water pump. My Dove doesn't. Have seen some guys tap both back areas and run lines back to the front of the motor to help the heads run a little cooler and make more power in the motor. This is for race motors.