[RICK LAKE]

BAsque1 Lou My G-force is a clutchless 5 speed. It's clogs and sliders. It's more for 1/4 mile racing as I have the vertigate also for this trans. I just tap the throttle and pull the shifts for going up, for going down, tap the clutch pedal to unload torque and shift down. It's a smooth shift if done right. I had the trans checked 5 years ago and they said that there was no problems internally. There was little wear on the parts. They replaced the springs in the shifter for centering it for gears 3 and 4. I have to work at not man handling the shifter. G-force doesn't sell and overdrive trans. Richmond has come out with a super street 5 speed trans good for 600/600 of hp and torque. It's syncroed and built to handle abuse better that the 6 spd I have. I am also above the limit on the 6 spd of 450/450, with 600 ft of torque. I had looked TKO 600 and the Viper 6spd. Kiesler has come out with a bullet proof 5 or 6 spd. I don't have any info. I do know they are installing this trans behind some big HEMI'S.
Lou is your trans a race trans? Lugging them causes jumping out of gear. The other issue is what clutch are you using in the car? If it's a centerforce, though it in the garbage, it's JUNK. Buy a stock 11.5" oem one or look at McLeod or Ram. See brent on here for a good deal. There is a serial number stamped into the case that when you call richmond they can tell you what the trans is and ratio's inside. The other thing to check is with the clutch pedal engaged there should be between .035"-.055" air gap for complete disengagement of the clutch disc from flywheel and pressure plate. It's a real pain to check but if not clear it can cause shifting problems. We have had a couple of guys here have cracked pressure plates. This will cause a problem with the clutch and shifting too. Rick L.